Al-Ahram Weekly   Al-Ahram Weekly
21 - 28 January 1999
Issue No. 413
Published in Cairo by AL-AHRAM established in 1875 Back issues

 
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The path to Paphos

By Hassan Fouad

Cyprus probably has more to offer the tourist than any other island in the Mediterranean. This remains true even today, although many of what were once the most popular resorts on the northern and eastern shores are still under Turkish occupation. The fact that 37 per cent of the total area of the island has been effectively deprived of its independence, has not taken away its attractive landscape, pleasant climate, nor its rich historical and cultural heritage. Its position at the centre of the eastern Mediterranean, at a major sea cross-roads between East and West, has endowed it with a rich past whose recorded history dates back to 6,000 BC.

Driving a little way inland from the coast, you reach the pine forests. In winter, you are only an hour from the ski slopes of the Troudos mountains. Springtime arrives with a burst of kaleidoscopic colours. Summer brings sunshine and endless blue skies.

The western part of Cyprus is still unspoilt, despite the depredations of tourists and soldiers. There lies Paphos, the island's capital in Roman times. It is reputedly the birthplace of Aphrodite, the Venus of Roman mythology. Sheltered from the north by the Troudos range, it has the most appealing year-round climate. Among its beaches, the most splendid is the aptly-named Coral Bay.

A vast irrigation project has given the Paphos district rich and fertile plains which bring forth an ever-greater abundance of grapes, citrus fruit and bananas. With such plentiful produce, the Cypriots have earned a reputation for both their good food and their generous hospitality.

The city of Paphos now has its own airport, which makes it directly accessible from most of the countries of the region. It is also close to the Akamas National Park.

Richly endowed with four and five star hotels, built to reflect the rural character of old Cyprus, the city has the appearance of a series of clusters of fine village houses; yet it can provide all the latest facilities demanded by tourists.

Not far from your hotel, whichever one you choose, you will find one of the island's richest treasures -- Hellenistic mosaics which were uncovered by a workman's bulldozer in 1962. The images are breathtaking, unique in their subject matter and colour.

Nearby are the Tombs of the Kings which date back to 300 BC. Another attraction is the ancient citadel of Paphos which overlooks the harbour. UNESCO has included Paphos on its World Cultural Heritage List, an accolade that is justly deserved.

A short drive away is the Roman amphitheatre at Curium which was partly destroyed by a series of earthquakes in medieval times, and only recently restored. Since 1962, "Shakespeare at the Curium" has been a popular annual event drawing more than 5,000 spectators every year. Recent performances have included Antony and Cleopatra, The Taming of the Shrew and Romeo and Juliet.

Paphos' latest attractions are the series of recently established tourist villages, among them Kamares, Stephanie and Basilica Gardens. The name Basilica comes from an archaeological site which, according to legend, was where St Paul was tied to a post and whipped. The accommodation at these resorts consists of maisonettes, studios and apartments. Each site has beautifully laid out gardens. Facilities include club rooms, swimming pools, sports equipment and restaurants. In the evenings, dinner dances or Cypriot folk dances provide entertainment. Some of the villages are built on gentle slopes affording excellent views of the sea and countryside.

For those who want to explore further afield, a car can be hired, either for three or seven days, with unlimited mileage. A comprehensive network of roads provides easy access to much of the island, and will allow you to drive to centres where pottery is manufactured by local craftsman and traditional weaving is carried out on ancient looms.

Finding a room is unlikely to be a problem, even in peak season. Accommodation caters for a wide range of budgets with a correspondingly large variety of options. The Violetta apartments are the least expensive, while the Cypria Maris and Coral Beach are especially splendid hotels. Many travel agents offer a fortnight's fly-drive package with accommodation in traditional village houses at very reasonable prices.

For further suggestions for scenic drives and walks, there are two recently published guide books which can be highly recommended: Cyprus: The Rough Guide, from Penguin, and Landscapes of Cyprus, from the Sunflower Publishing House.  

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