Al-Ahram Weekly   Al-Ahram Weekly
11 - 17 March 1999
Issue No. 420
Published in Cairo by AL-AHRAM established in 1875 Back issues Current issue

 
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Grand Sufi house restored

By Nevine El-Aref

The restoration of the zawiya of Abdel-Rahman Katkhuda must rank as one of the Supreme Council of Antiquities' (SCA) greatest achievements. The centuries-old building has been returned to its original grandeur thanks to an LE700,000 SCA-funded project.

The zawiya -- a residence for Muslim Sufis -- is situated in one of the most heavily populated areas of the medieval city. Urban encroachment on historical buildings is a serious issue. Hordes of pedestrians vie for space with traders and merchants, while car fumes add to the thick layer of pollution which hangs over the area.

All this just confirms the verdict that the recently-completed restoration of the Katkhuda zawiya has been a great success. The building is easily recognisable to anyone walking in the Al-Megharbillin area. Its distinctive facade has a tiny balcony over the decorative entrance which was used for the call to prayer. Round windows with wooden lattice add an unusual decorative innovation.

A zawiya is not a mosque. Rather, it is where Muslim Sufis live. It is centred around a sheikh and a particular tariqa, or sect.

This one was built by Abdel-Rahman Katkhuda in 1739. Its historical importance is that it is all that remains of the first building of a mystic order erected by the sultan from the Ottoman period. Over the next 30 years, Katkhuda was to become a great patron of architecture.

On the ground floor of the double-storeyed building is found the madia'a (fountain for ablutions), while the second features the main hall where prayers were held.

Like other buildings in the area it suffered from its congested location, leakage of rain water, a decayed sewage system and general ill-use over the centuries. The stairs had collapsed and only some parts of the mashrabiya (carved woodwork) windows remained intact. All its interior architectural elements needed to be attended to.

The restoration included the dismantling and treating of all woodwork on three large windows and the coloured ceiling. Abdallah El-Attar, head of the Islamic and Coptic department of the SCA, said the building was structurally strengthened by the consolidation of its walls and foundations and the replacement of a missing stone.

The zawiya of Katkhuda is within walking distance of many important landmarks. These include the recently restored Sabil-Kuttab (water fountain and school) of Nefissa El-Bayda'a, the mosque of Sheikh El-Mu'ayya d (which is currently under restoration) and the famous market of the tentmakers -- the Khayamiya.

Farouk Hosni, the minister of culture, who officially inaugurated the

zawiya, toured the area afterwards to check on the progress made on other buildings of the historic zone. He gave a close inspection to Bab (gate) Zuweila, El-Saleh Tala'i Mosque, Maq'ad (terrace) Radwan and the mosque of Mahmoud El-Kurdi El-Ustadar. These are only a handful of the 43 historic monuments marked for restoration in the first phase of the project to turn the medieval city into an open-air museum.

Hosni stressed that despite all the major works taking place and the massive revamp which was under way, the skilled workmen in the area would not be relocated. "The craftsmen lend a vivid atmosphere to the area and the government is keen to encourage them," he said.

The Khayameya is one of the oldest covered markets in Cairo. Craftsmen sit in small ground-floor chambers with their colourful fabrics, carpets and leather-work piled high around them. At the end of each day, the men remove the materials to their living quarters one floor above. Khayameya has been producing since its foundation by Radwan Beck in 1650 and is still a popular tourist attraction. Passing through the market, you can watch social and business life take place in much the same way as it did in the time of the Ottoman Turks.

The momentum of restoration will doubtless pick up later in the year with the completion of the tunnel extending from Opera Square to Salah Salem Street. It will relieve pressure on Al-Azhar Street and the older parts of the city and reduce the rate of vibration and pollution. Gaballa Ali Gaballa, secretary-general of the SCA, said some businesses that adversely affected the monuments would be removed. "An aluminium factory which dumps industrial waste against the walls of monuments, a pickle factory and heavy machinery workshops have no place in the historical zone. They will have to be removed, or change their activities," Gaballa said. "Vegetable markets, too, will be moved away, and in the case of historic buildings still used as private residences, the people will be relocated in houses in the Manshiyet Al-Nasr area."

 

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