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Al-Ahram Weekly 18 - 24 March 1999 Issue No. 421 
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Published in Cairo by AL-AHRAM established in 1875 |
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Al-Ahram Weekly 18 - 24 March 1999 Issue No. 421
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| Published in Cairo by AL-AHRAM established in 1875 |
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Egypt Region International Economy Opinion Culture Profile Features Travel Living Sports People Time Out Chronicles Cartoons Letters Within these walls
By Andrew SteeleThe title of this week's column may cause certain British readers to harken back to a rather tawdry '70s television drama, starring the unfortunately monikered Ms Googie Withers. This, however, was not the intention. I have been on a short cavort to sunny Syria, and am eager to report on the gastronomic delights of its capital, the most memorable part of which must be the mediaeval walled city. There are a number of options therein for the finest of dining, but, according to fellow travellers and Damascene friends, the hands-down winner in the culinary stakes has got to be the glorious Arabesque.
Take a wander down the very biblical street called 'Straight'. It was here, so it is said, that Saint Paul dangled with derring-do over the city walls, hidden in a basket, and it is here, in The Patriarchate Alley off the Medhat Pasha Souq, that you will find the oasis of the sublime that is the Arabesque dining experience.
Set in a beautifully renovated Ottoman house, with appropriately convoluted stairways and passages, the Arabesque manages to exude sumptuousness without being off-puttingly grand. One can check one's coat at the small reception area as one enters, and then ascend the stairway to a choice of cunningly positioned dining halls. These are complimented by a series of romantic nooks for those with seduction on their minds. It being Damascus in February, we forsook romantic intimacy for a table near a heater.
The menus offer well-chosen continental fare along with a supplement of new additions. Fine wines and beers can be had at very reasonable prices. We plumped for a bottle of heavy, spicy Lebanese Ksara Chateau 1994 to wet our whistles and tickle our palates, and jolly good it was too.
To the food then, and what food it was. Mark chose a hearty leek soup to combat the cold, while I awaited the delights of an Aubergine Surprise. Joan indicated that the Stuffed Mushrooms would be her plat du jour. The soup was thick and green; wafts of leek and rosemary pre-empted its arrival. The Aubergine Surprise really was just that -- a well-marinated slice of aubergine, topped with a tomato compote, mushrooms, good, smoky bacon, a flurry of herbs and a slice of rich, mature cheddar. The stuffed mushrooms had a garlic and herb theme, and came swimming in salty butter. Without exception divine.
The main courses were similarly gorgeous. My medallions du chef were thinly sliced and wickedly marinated cuts of prime rib, drizzled with (not drowned in) a light cream and mushroom affair, with home-made potato croquettes, a selection of vegetables and some buttered garlic noodles as accompaniment. The filet with a mustard herb sauce was also consummately done. Mark's fish pot was not, he was relieved to find, some tired old reheated tagen, perked up in the microwave, but a rich, gratinated mêlée of juicy mackerel and white-bate, baked with fresh herbs galore and a light, piquant tomato sauce. Potato scallops sat on the side.
Service was absolutely impeccable and came with an elegant smile. Head straight down the street called 'Straight' next time you visit Damascus, and lose yourself in the heady delights of Arabesque. The bill came to a staggeringly reasonable $16 per head.
Arabesque, The Patriarchate Alley, Medhat Pasha Souk, Damascus
Tel: (00 963 11) 5433999
