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Al-Ahram Weekly 18 - 24 March 1999 Issue No. 421 
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Published in Cairo by AL-AHRAM established in 1875 |
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Al-Ahram Weekly 18 - 24 March 1999 Issue No. 421
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| Published in Cairo by AL-AHRAM established in 1875 |
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Egypt Region International Economy Opinion Culture Profile Features Travel Living Sports People Time Out Chronicles Cartoons Letters Under the spell
By Salama Ahmed Salama
As soon as one leaves Cairo, one becomes suddenly susceptible to feelings of joy at nature: a young green sapling, a tree, a spring of water and a breath of fresh air. Aswan is pure magic. The beauty of the scenery, blended with the fragrance of past millennia, and the eternal river stretched out, close enough to touch, gives one the impression of possessing the secrets of immortality. Here time seems to have moved slowly.
Sitting on the terrace of the Old Cataract Hotel offers a unique view of the sun setting behind the distant hills. You are spellbound by the magic, overwhelmed by sorrow, and profoundly aware of the greatness of the Creator. In a few seconds, the universe seems to settle, its relentless movement, colourful detail and boisterous creatures transformed into dark, undefined shadows. All features and characteristics seem to fade away, barriers fall and contours are blurred. A deep sense of oneness with the universe, with its planets and stars and spirits from time immemorial, seems to dominate.
With its Victorian architecture and old-world interior, the Old Cataract still graces Aswan. Its long, dimly lit red-carpeted corridors lead to suites where famous men and women, including Winston Churchill, Agatha Christie and the Agha Khan (who would book a suite for the whole winter season), stayed. The Agha Khan came to Aswan every year, seeking relief from his arthritis. He chose Aswan for his honeymoon when he married in 1957, and also as his burial place. His mausoleum, overlooking the city, is reminiscent of Pharaonic tombs built on the western bank of the Nile.
Down the corridors leading to the royal wing (where kings Fouad and later Farouk stayed, and which later became the presidential wing), your feet sink into the thick carpet... Famous faces -- President Mitterrand, Nahhas Pasha, the Russian Tsar -- lurk in the shadows. The great dining room, which was also the ballroom, could be a courtyard in some Andalusian palace.
The hotel, built in December 1899, almost a century ago, stands at the site of the First Cataract, on an elevated granite plateau on the western bank of the river. The unique site offers an unfettered view of the horizon from any window in the hotel.
Once the sole hotel in Aswan, the Old Cataract is today one of many hotels claiming various numbers of stars. A number of hotels have taken over entire islands in the Nile. Tourism has been on the ascent for some months, and promises to flourish further in the coming years as memories of the massacre in Luxor fade. Scores of Nile cruisers teeming with tourists are moored on the river-bank, blocking the view for pedestrians on the street. Still, Aswan, once the exile of government employees, is today one of the cleanest and most beautiful cities in Egypt, although its bazaar, which is a major attraction for tourists, could do with some cleaning up. The new Pharaonic-style airport is envisaged to support an increased touristic movement to and from the city.
I have admired scores of new buildings and establishments which further embellish the city, especially the Nubian Museum. I have eagerly sought to know the name of the architect of this magnificent edifice, but failed. While the military hospital, the school of hotelry, and the radio and television building are all eye-catching edifices, the most attractive is the Coptic Cathedral, which rivals St Mark's and is concrete proof of the religious tolerance prevailing in Egypt.
My long-cherished dream of spending part of my life in a modest Nubian house will not materialise, unfortunately. I have not the wealth of the Agha Khan; nor can I afford to forget time and submit to Aswan's spell. We spend our lives pursued by events. But the beauty, peace and tranquillity of Aswan heals the body, restores tranquillity to the spirit and stimulates the mind.
