Al-Ahram Weekly   Al-Ahram Weekly
29 Apr. - 5 May 1999
Issue No. 427
Published in Cairo by AL-AHRAM established in 1875 Index of issues This week's issue

 
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Heavenly bodies

By Andrew Steele

"When the moon is in the seventh house, and Jupiter aligns with Mars, then peace will guide the planets, and love will guide the stars." So go the opening lines of Hair, that epochal slice of flower child hokum that graced many an off-Broadway proscenium arch in the rather naff early '70s. No such hippie twaddle is to be found in the environs of the Gemini restaurant in Damascus, despite its astrological pretensions. On the contrary, this venue is decidedly hip, and well worth a visit should you, perchance, find yourself in the delightful Syrian capital with an empty belly and some time to kill. Indeed a vibrant venue for a lunar lunch or a stellar supper, if you'll pardon the alliteration. It's all very bright and spacious, but thankfully free of fluorescent strips. A member of the friendly wait staff, dressed in basic black, saw Joan, Alan and I to one of the solid dark wood astrologically-etched tables in a trice, and proffered heavy, serious-looking menus and a natty drinks list.

The choice that one is faced with is very much American bistro style food. Meat, fish and poultry platters vie for space with a splendid array of starters and salads. It's always a pleasure to feel that one is spoilt for choice.

Salad bars to start. Having taken a sneaky peak at Gemini's splendid spread beforehand, we decided that the wares therein would constitute a much-needed balance to the artery-fuzzing treats that lay in store for the main course. We were not disappointed. Standard oriental mezze choices were excellent, a particularly garlicky tomato salad setting the pace. These were given consummate back-up by a more American sort of salad, toothsome ranch style dressing standing by.

The main courses maintained standards. I chose a death-defying cheese and mushroom steak platter: thinly sliced tranches of prime fillet, grilled to a taste-bud-arousing brown, piled high with fresh, fried mushrooms and smothered in lashings of Swiss cheese. I assume that the completed delicacy was then escorted back to the realms of the broiler for further browning. Served with crisp, stir-fried vegetables and double-baked potatoes, it really was an exercise in heart disease, but, scruples aside, all the better for it. Joan's Chilli burger was a large succulent piece of meat. Seated upon a fresh sesame bun and lovingly anointed with a pleasingly piquant chilli sauce, it was proclaimed a most excellent specimen, a statement which, from my side of the table, I would be forced to agree with. Alan's grilled salmon steak brought up the rear. This too was prepared to virtual perfection, a big, pink, slab, lightly marinated in dill and lemon. This too came with the same crunchy veggies and a good pile of buttery herbed rice. We were far too replete for dessert, which, judging by the menu, were equally naughty. Good food done well was the verdict, and one Damascus's must-visit venues, for sure. A slight problem, as far as I was concerned, was that the delightful staff was wholly unable to give me the address -- my apologies for the vagueness below. A great big lunch for three with a good bottle of red wine touched down at about 1200 Syrian pounds -- approximately $26. The future for Gemini looks distinctly starry. Tel:

Gemini, off Abu Ramaneh, Near Nora's Supermarket, Damascus
Tel (+ 00 963 11) 3337095

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