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Al-Ahram Weekly 10 - 16 June 1999 Issue No. 433 
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Published in Cairo by AL-AHRAM established in 1875 |
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Al-Ahram Weekly 10 - 16 June 1999 Issue No. 433
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| Published in Cairo by AL-AHRAM established in 1875 |
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Egypt Region International Economy Opinion Culture Profile Features Books Living Travel Sports Time Out Chronicles Cartoons Letters Absolute beginners
By Pascale GhazalehResidents of Maadi are known for going to roost with the chickens, and most restaurants in the Leafy Suburb cater exclusively to the dinner-at-six crowd, who pile out of large Landrovers, laughing uproariously, consume large quantities of furred and feathered creatures, and depart while the sun is still high in the sky. This reputation, however, is a fictitious convenience: most Maadi residents I know go to bed in the wee hours, and wouldn't be seen dead dining in daylight. Basilico, which stays open until 1.00am, will be frequented by these -- as many of them, that is, as can squeeze onto its tiny premises. With four or five tables placed strategically in a space that would be described as exiguous by the most optimistic, it is difficult to see how the owner is going to cover his outlay, let alone turn a profit, but hope springs eternal.
Being cantankerous by nature, I shall start with complaints: no alcohol is understandable, but no Diet Coke, tea or coffee? Another minor glitch concerns the waiter, who seemed to have arrived fresh from a remedial training course: apparently afflicted with poor hearing as well as limited eyesight, he flinched visibly before approaching any of the implements he was attempting to place on the table. After several false starts, and much rearranging of the salt cellar, he was able to provide us with coasters, glasses and a bottle of mineral water.
Offered a choice of dishes from the salad corner, we went for the whole corner: slivers of grilled green pepper marinated in a slightly salty vinaigrette; beetroot, tasting as earthy as it tends to do; remarkable fried zucchini; and cubes of tomato with mozzarella and garlic.
For a pasta place, Basilico is short on vegetarian delights -- even the tomato sauce (as in "spaghetti in a rich tomato sauce and oregano") was, according to the eminently affable proprietor, made with beef stock. He was nevertheless able to rustle up some gnocchi (usually available only on Sundays, and described, oddly enough, as being made with same said rich tomato sauce), which was splendidly easy on the tastebuds. One of my companions became quite emotional and gazed lovingly at her plate, declaring that only her dear departed grandmother knew how to make gnocchi so light, fresh and delicious in every respect.
The carnivore at the table had the "juicy entrecote 'Della Casa'" which, as advertised, was served with plump French fries and glossy green beans. Prompted for a reaction, he nodded the way he does to signify approval, and failed to request a steak knife, which must have meant the meat was meltingly tender.
Basilico only opened two weeks ago, and there are still a few kinks to be ironed out but, on the whole, eating there is a little like having dinner at a friend's. The prices are very good, with most dishes about half the price of their counterparts in equally upmarket locations downtown: dinner for three, no frills, came to LE54. Its pint-sized format, nonchalant yet eager attitude and convenient location next to the Sakanat metro station should make the place a success, especially with those who thought six o'clock meant time for tea.
Basilico, 45 Road 9, Maadi
Tel: 3757007 (delivery and take-away available)
