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Al-Ahram Weekly 30 Sep. - 6 Oct. 1999 Issue No. 449 
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Published in Cairo by AL-AHRAM established in 1875 |
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Al-Ahram Weekly 30 Sep. - 6 Oct. 1999 Issue No. 449
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| Published in Cairo by AL-AHRAM established in 1875 |
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Egypt Region International Economy Opinion Culture Focus Features Profile Travel Living Sports People Time Out Chronicles Cartoons Letters Cairo's magical metro tour
By Amira El-NoshokatyThe Cairo underground allows direct access to a number of ancient and modern sites in Greater Cairo. The first metro line opened in April 1989 stretched from Al-Marg in the north to Helwan in the south, a distance of about 43km, which carries passengers to sites of Pharaonic, Islamic and Coptic interest. Now a second line has been opened, from east to west, which crosses beneath the bed of the Nile and increases the number of options open to travellers anxious to avoid road congestion.
The most important stops on the north/south line include Sadat station (Midan Al-Tahrir) where the Egyptian Museum with its massive collection of Pharaonic treasures is located. A few minutes walk from the station (in the direction of the Ramses Hilton) is the bus terminal for long distance domestic travel.
Sayeda Zeinab station further south is a useful departure point because it is within walking distance of the ninth century Mosque of Ibn Tulun, the oldest Islamic structure preserved in Cairo, and a further walk will take energetic tourists to the Citadel, Al-Refa'i Mosque and many structures (including water fountains and houses) of the Mameluke era.
Mar Girgis is the stop for the Coptic Museum, the churches and monasteries of Old Cairo and the Synagogue of Ben Ezra. The museum has the finest collection of Coptic tapestries in the world and two churches (Al-Mo'allaqa or the "Hanging Church" and the Church of Saint Sergius where the Holy Family is said to have taken refuge in a cave) are at present undergoing restoration.
Al-Maadi was once a residential area, primarily for expatriates. Today it is a crowded suburb. It is where the fifth century Church of the Holy Virgin is situated a mere 15-minute walk from the station, on the bank of the Nile.
Helwan is the last stop. Once a health resort of some renown with curative sulphur springs the suburb has now become an industrial area where air pollution is high; it seldom tempts those who would otherwise try the "baths" which are still open.
The new metro line that runs from east to west beneath the Nile was opened in October 1998. It extends for some 16km from Shubra Al-Kheima in the east, through Mubarak Station at Ramses Square, to Midan Al-Tahrir (Sadat) to Giza passing some 15 stations, many of which are near sites or museums of interest.
Mubarak Station at Ramses Square is one of the busiest in Cairo. The square is so polluted that the famous statue of Ramses II, installed to enhance the square in the 1960s, is going to be moved to a healthier environment, reputedly back to Memphis where it was originally found. Cairo Railway Station itself is worth a visit. The building is of historical interest being the first terminal in the Middle East; it was built in the reign of Khedive Ismail in 1851. Round the corner is the little-known Railway Museum. It is a two-storey building that dates back to 1933 and covers transportation in Egypt from ancient to modern times. Among the displays are carriages of Egypt's monarchy including one of Said Pasha, a gift from Queen Eugenie of France. Here, too, are documents of historical interest: the first contract to build a railway station in Egypt, and an old driving licence dated 1878 for driving or owning donkeys!
Mohamed Naguib Station is where to exit for Abdin Palace which was built in the reign of Khedive Ismail between 1863 and 1879, taken over by the government after the 1952 Revolution and recently converted into a national museum.
A wide range of objects including medals bestowed on various rulers, bone china with the royal family crest and silver goblets are on display as well as swords and artillery that date back to the 14th century, among them weapons of Persian, Turkish and Egyptian origin.
Sadat, the station where the two metro lines meet, is, as mentioned above, where the world-renowned Egyptian Museum is situated. Its large wrought iron gateway leads a to a well-landscaped garden, itself enhanced with treasures, mostly monolithic statues from Memphis and Tanis.
Gezira station is the exit for the Opera House. There is an Opera ticket counter in the subway and one exit leads directly into the Opera House garden which is adorned with statues of Egyptian celebrities in the field of culture.
Dokki is the station to exit for the newly-opened Mohamed Mahmoud Khalil Museum in Giza Street. The grand villa belonged to Mahmoud Bek Khalil (1877-1933), a prominent politician and art collector. It is a three-storey building that now houses statues and impressionist paintings including Claude Monet's famed "Bridge over a Water Plant Marsh" and Van Gogh's "Rhythm and the Poppy Flowers". There are also hand-made ornaments studded with precious stones and against the staircase there stands a giant freehand glass wall painting where sunlight enhances the lively colours and artistry.
A taste of Egypt on a shoestring budget
