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Al-Ahram Weekly 9 - 15 March 2000 Issue No. 472 
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Published in Cairo by AL-AHRAM established in 1875 |
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Al-Ahram Weekly 9 - 15 March 2000 Issue No. 472
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| Published in Cairo by AL-AHRAM established in 1875 |
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Egypt Region International Economy Opinion Culture Features Focus Books Travel Living Sports Profile People Time Out Chronicles Cartoons Spice of life
By Injy El-KashefPaprika is one of those classic places that never seem to change, perhaps due to the fact that its sombre interior and its dark exterior keep it safely hidden from the crowds -- to the regular clientele's delight -- although the green neon sign spelling its name remains far from inconspicuous. It has been the favourite restaurant of many a couple for years and only seems to gain in reputation with the passing of time. It is also important to mention that it has done so with class and subtle elegance, unlike other places which hit the top of the restaurant list overnight, becoming insanely fashionable only to fade from the collective Cairene memory just as suddenly.
The clientele was predominantly foreign the night we dined at Paprika, and seemed quite at ease, cheerful and almost loud, as if it was a second home. Paprika is located on the Corniche, overlooking the Nile and, sadly, some of the fluorescent boats-cum-restaurants that now overcrowd the river. The interior is a warm and sedate affair -- though they must get rid of the plastic sunflowers in pots. The walls are panelled with wood, the decor is elegant and somehow welcoming, perhaps thanks to the absence of bright and metallic colours and the prevalence of dark hues. It is actually strongly reminiscent of many restaurants in Eastern Europe, especially those found on the outskirts of town, serving pheasant and gazelle meat, sweet red wine and featuring Tzigane musicians.
Our waiter was polite and friendly, without indulging in unnecessary jesting or small talk. A tajin of Penne all'Arrabiata and the Calamari with Sauce both came piping hot; each in its own way was rich, smooth, cheesy, with strong tomato and herb sauce and absolutely perfect -- if slightly on the heavy side. The Paprika Fish arrived in an oblong metal dish with much seasoning. The verdict was that, although the sauce was delicious, the dish in its entirety tasted too fishy, as though it hadn't been marinated before being processed into what landed on the table. As for the Fillet Paprika with Mushrooms, it enjoyed the kind of straightforwardness that makes things exactly what they should be. The thick gravy on the fillet was the right consistency and the meat itself the right thickness. Perhaps even more delicious than the main item was its accompaniment: buttery and soft mashed potatoes, the way they haven't tasted since I was a five-year-old. If you are given another option, make sure to decline and insist (bribe the waiter if you must) on the mashed potatoes.
Desserts were more scarce on the menu than we hoped. We opted for a Crème Caramel and an Umm Ali. The first was no more than OK, but the second... deserves a sentence by itself: little crunchy doughy bits soaking in sweet, hot milk, sprinkled with crispy nuts and topped with a burnt milk crust. Sheer bliss.
Dinner for two -- alcohol excluded -- was LE145.
Paprika, 1129 Corniche Al-Nil St, Maspero.
Tel 578 9447/7887
