 |
Al-Ahram Weekly 16 - 22 March 2000 Issue No. 473 
|
||
Published in Cairo by AL-AHRAM established in 1875 |
| ||
|
Al-Ahram Weekly 16 - 22 March 2000 Issue No. 473
|
||
| Published in Cairo by AL-AHRAM established in 1875 |
| ||
Egypt Region International Economy Opinion Culture Special Focus Travel Living Sports Profile People Time Out Chronicles Battling for the baptism
On 21 March, Pope John Paul II is scheduled to visit Wadi Al-Kharrar, on the East Bank of the Jordan River -- the "real site" (according to Jordan's Tourism Ministry) of the baptism of Jesus Christ. A week later he may visit Qasr Al-Yahud, near Jericho on the west bank of the Jordan River -- the "real site" where Jesus was baptised, according to Israel and the Palestinian Authority (PA).
The paradox speaks volumes about the dynamics of the pope's upcoming tour of the Holy Land. His visit has been presented as an act of piety and interfaith reconciliation, but more earthly struggles ultimately underpin the pope's pilgrimage. The political legitimacy the pope's historic visit lends -- not to mention the economic dividends expected to flow in his wake -- is impossible to ignore.
The battle of the sites became an issue in February when, following his audience at the Vatican, Yasser Arafat unexpectedly invited Pope John Paul II to visit Jericho as part of his tour to Israel and the PA areas. The pope agreed, unaware perhaps of the immense political (and actual) minefield into which he was stepping.
The Israeli government was furious about Arafat's off-the-cuff offer. Under the taxonomy of the Oslo agreements, Qasr Al-Yahud is located in Area C of the West Bank, and so outside the PA's jurisdiction, in terms of both administration and security. Israel was also concerned about the security headaches such a visit would bring, as well as the adverse publicity generated by the sight of the pope blessing one of the holiest spots in Christianity on a territory that remains an occupied Israeli military zone. Apart from a Franciscan Church, every other religious site at Qasr Al-Yahud is off-limits to the public and surrounded by land mines.
But the PA, as well as Palestinian tourist agencies, is equally displeased about Jordan's belated claim to the "true" baptism site. "I don't believe pilgrims will go to Jordan to visit [the Wadi Al-Kharrar] site," says Salim Laham, owner of a Jerusalem tourist company -- though perhaps more out of hope than conviction. Laham stressed that for over 100 years Christian pilgrims have immersed themselves in the waters beside Qasr Al-Yahud in the belief that this was the real baptism site. Yet he concedes that, given Israel's reluctance -- and the PA's inability -- to develop the West Bank site and Jordan's desire to develop theirs, this could change in the future -- especially since the pope's patronage would bestow "authenticity" on both.
This will be the 100th trip by the pope outside Italy since he was elected to the Holy See. According to a tentative programme distributed by the Latin Vicariate of Amman to the local churches, the pope will start his millennium holy land pilgrimage at 2.00pm on 20 March from Queen Alia Airport, where he will be welcomed by King Abdullah. From there, the 79-year-old head of the Roman Catholic Church will board the pope-mobile en route to the Sanctuary of Syagha on Mount Nebo, from where Moses glanced the Promised Land before his death.
"The eight-kilometre route to Mount Nebo will be flanked by huge crowds of no less than 70,000 Christians and Muslims," anticipated Father Rifaat Bedr, spokesman of the Amman Vicariate headed by Bishop Salim Sayegh.
An icon representing Jesus Christ being baptised by Jhon the Baptist
Christian MP Nashat Hamarneh made the same prediction: "We meet every week with representatives of communities and villages in the municipality," he told The Jordan Times. "Some Muslim villages, like Feisalyieh, for example, have been preparing for months, with banners and flags ready to welcome the pope," Hamarneh said.
"People were very disappointed when they learnt that the Holy Father will only pass through Madaba [where the airport is located], without stopping. But they are grateful for every second of his visit," Hamarneh added.
From the Memorial of Moses on Mount Nebo, where he will be received by some 40 local church leaders, the pope and his motorcade will drive to the Apostolic Nunciature in Abdoun, opened after the establishment of diplomatic relations between the Vatican and Jordan in 1994 and currently also responsible for relations with Iraq.
The pope will conclude the first day of his monumental tour with a meeting with King Abdullah at the Royal Palace of Bab Al-Barakeh. It will be the second private meeting between the pope and the king, who, together with Queen Rania, visited the Vatican in October.
The pope's second day in Jordan will start with an Apostolic Mass at 9.00am at the Amman stadium, the most solemn moment of his stay. "The stadium can accommodate only 40,000 people, but we expect no less than 100,000, most of whom will remain outside in the vicinity," Father Bedr said.
Two-thousand boys and girls from all corners of the kingdom will receive first communion during the mass, which will be celebrated by the pope and the leaders of the many Christian denominations in Jordan, including Latins, Syriacs, Copts and Melchites.
"The gospel will be read in Arabic, the pope will officiate in English and the people will answer in Arabic," Bedr told The Jordan Times. "Each denomination will sing hymns and songs in its own language (Syriac, Latin, Greek and Coptic), accompanied by a choir of 120 singers and 40 musicians under the baton of a Muslim conductor, Mohamed Othman Siddiq, resident conductor of the National Music Conservatory Orchestra," Bedr said.
In the afternoon, the pope will visit the baptism site at Wadi Al-Kharrar -- the "Bethany beyond the Jordan." Authorities claim that according to Saint John's gospel, the site is where Jesus was baptised by John the Baptist. Tourism Minister Akel Biltaji has announced that tents for pilgrims and a "very simple stage" for the pope's prayers will be readied on the site.
"The pope has reiterated that this will be a spiritual itinerary [and] we will not allow ourselves to commercialise his visit and spoil its spirituality and serenity," Biltaji stressed in an interview with The Jordan Times.
The pope will conclude his 26-hour stay in Jordan with prayers on the site of Al-Maghtas ("baptism" in Arabic) and blessing worshippers there with holy water. He will then continue his pilgrimage to Palestine and Israel.
Once in Palestine, it remains to be seen whether the pope will make the controversial move of visiting the Jericho site. But, if for reasons of time or health the Jericho leg of his itinerary is cancelled, it will peeve the Palestinians -- and please the Israelis. Far less publicly of course, it may also please the Jordanian Tourist Ministry.
Graham Usher in Jerusalem, Lola Keilani in Amman
