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Al-Ahram Weekly 11 - 17 May 2000 Issue No. 481 
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Published in Cairo by AL-AHRAM established in 1875 |
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Al-Ahram Weekly 11 - 17 May 2000 Issue No. 481
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| Published in Cairo by AL-AHRAM established in 1875 |
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Egypt Region International Economy Opinion Culture Books Features Interview Travel Living Sports Profile People Time Out Chronicles Cartoons Letters Soul food
By Injy El-KashefGad is another one of those places that end up in Cairo after a long and prosperous history in Alexandria. In fact, many Alexandrians will swear that Gad is yet another reason why their city is the pearl of the Mediterranean. We underwent a positive initiation to Gad at the Diplomatic Village on the Northern Coast, where the venue is not only successful, but an indispensable aspect of holiday makers' happiness. Who else can provide a delicious sugar-and-nuts fitir at the end of a sunny day? Or a crispy fried calamari platter and a cold beer on the beach?
The situation in Cairo is very different, however. Although the young and pleasant waiters convey the same sense of well-being and carefree liveliness as their Alexandrian counterparts, the menu in the capital is a far more serious affair. It includes virtually everything one could be inclined to taste and, if our orders were anything to go by, delivers rather oversized portions -- at extremely reasonable prices. There are sections devoted to "Oriental" sandwiches (i.e. fuul, Roumi cheese, basturma with egg...), regular sandwiches (including shrimp, shish tawouk, burgers, brain and liver), pizza, pasta, fitir, charcoal-grilled meats, salads, fuul platters and desserts. Another section that merits special attention is the Special Gad Dishes (which lists selections of international favourites), this being the pride and glory of an otherwise quick and modest outlet.
The Special Dishes are probably very good. The only item from this section I could handle during my visit was the Escalope Pannée, which left nothing to be desired -- although I must admit I was intimidated by the size of the cut, and had no choice but to leave half for fear of indigestion. The other items require a different state of body and mind: I am referring to Lebanese fatta with meat, stuffed pigeons and vegetable casseroles with minced meat.
Another excellent choice was the Negresco, which was perfectly cheesy and filled with such intelligent additions as red peppers; never mind that they used spaghetti, not the penne one is accustomed to (to be honest, it tastes more or less the same). Again, no way of doing the right thing and cleaning one's plate -- the portions are simply too large. A guilty conscience is of no use here.
The reason why this review does not mention the space itself is simply that there is not much to say. At Gad's, you can only eat in the open air (not a garden -- basically the footpath). This is more good than bad, if only because it emphasises an identity Gad has created for itself, one that is easy and fun. There are mainly shabab having a loud and enjoyable time, but also families with children who play happily with the street cats. It is all quite cosy and friendly, except for the presence of a television showing ART programmes, to no one's interest or benefit.
Back to food: a pizza (often a good indicator) that looked more like a birthday cake but tasted just as it should was shared by our party and deemed worthy of future home deliveries. As for desserts, a rice pudding seemed the most sensible choice for someone who does not enjoy a fruit salad away from home. Since it was as honest as the rest of the food, one can only say that Gad deserves the reputation it has developed over the past 50 years.
Dinner, with yoghurt salad and a Coke, was LE44.50.
Gad, 63 Farid Semeika Street, opposite Omar Effendi, Heliopolis.
Tel: 6432013/2454535
