Al-Ahram Weekly 1 - 7 June 2000 Issue No. 484
Published in Cairo by AL-AHRAM established in 1875

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But where are the fish?

By Ahmed Sami

The Fish Garden in Zamalek, constructed in 1867 by Khedive Ismail on nine and half acres of his private property, was once one of Cairo's highlights; a delightful place for a family outing, and a quiet spot where one could relax in a natural environment -- or at least that's what I was told.

Thus, it was luscious green expanse and chattering exotic birds that I set out to enjoy when I finally decided to pay this restful oasis a visit. What I found was a far cry from the romantic settings in which Abdel-Halim Hafez, one of Egypt's most famous singers, performed some of his most memorable songs on film.

Instead of beautiful gardens, grottos and lakes filled with ducks and geese, or aquariums teeming with rare fish, I found the garden in a total state of disrepair. The entrance was being torn down, the lake was void of bird life and the coffee shop was run down, to say the least.

At first I wondered if I was in the wrong place. Was this really the celebrated garden designed by an Italian engineer and meant to emulate one of the gardens the Khedive had seen in Italy? The garden was frequently used as a stage set for films; its elegant palms and rare trees were chosen by many directors as a scenic background.

As I wandered around and wondered what had happened since then, I met Mustafa Awad, general supervisor of both the Zoological Gardens of Egypt (in Cairo and Alexandria) and Zamalek's fish garden. He explained to me that what seemed like such a disaster was actually a state of reconstruction. The garden is being completely rebuilt, in hopes of restoring the elegant grounds that first opened to the public nearly a century ago, in 1902.

"We started with the Giza Zoo and now it's the fish garden's turn," Awad said of the development project. "The most important phase of restoration has already started," he said, referring to the work being done on the hill constructed to contain aquariums. "We are using the white basalt stones at the entrance and restoring damaged parts, while retaining all original features," Awad added, assuring me that the fish garden will be finished before next winter, "complete with modern lighting."

Zamalek's Fish Garden, once an oasis of greenery and exotic life, is struggling out of the run-down state it had fallen into photos: Ayman Ibrahim

Making one's way around the site is an adventure in itself, with workers painting iron railings, clipping palms, building aquariums and reconstructing the hill presenting an obstacle course of dignified chaos. Finding my shoes caked white from the sandy ground -- it will be paved as part of the development -- it was with a certain amount of trepidation that I wandered into the stony grotto. Hearing a sound like the chirping of birds, I looked up to see bats lining the ceiling. Not the comforting sight I needed.

The fish garden needs more than restoration; it needs rehabilitation. Live bats and some mummified fish -- once part of displays that included living aquatic life -- are not enough to draw the crowds.

But I was quickly assured by Awad that the tanks will once again be filled with fish from all over the world, including Nile fish, provided by water directly from the Nile. Plans are under way to expand the lake, which will be divided into two parts, one for ducks and geese and the other for swans. Cages for a variety of birds will be introduced into the garden for the first time, and it will be illuminated with indirect lighting so that inhabitants of the surrounding area can enjoy the scenery by night. The garden will also have two new kiosks; one in which Arabic music will be played and the other featuring a display on aquatic life.

There is still some way to go, but Awad assured me that the deadline will be met. Still dreaming of the fish garden I never saw, I walked away with the faith that these labours will give birth to a rejuvenated haven, perhaps comparable to its earlier incarnation and maybe even better. Having seen the worst, it can only get better from here.

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