 |
Al-Ahram Weekly 20 - 26 July 2000 Issue No. 491 
|
||
Published in Cairo by AL-AHRAM established in 1875 |
| ||
|
Al-Ahram Weekly 20 - 26 July 2000 Issue No. 491
|
||
| Published in Cairo by AL-AHRAM established in 1875 |
| ||
Egypt Region International Economy Opinion Culture Features Travel Living Sports Profile People Time Out Chronicles Cartoons Letters Sub-continental surprise
By Injy El-KashefSometimes what would have normally raised both our suspicions and our eyebrows, under different circumstances brings us relief. Entering an Indian restaurant on one of the busiest streets of Cairo and finding it empty -- completely empty -- would usually have inspired us with the bright idea of just turning around and leaving; only we had a drowsy four-month-old baby in our midst (that really is a stroke of luck, having the place to ourselves!).
The name definitely indicates an Indian restaurant, as do the upholstery and the paintings on the wall -- beautiful processions with Krishna staring out at you from the silk. Otherwise, one must admit, it is all pretty regular. Yes, there are many lovely and healthy real plants -- and that in itself is rather delightful -- yes, there are elegant and happy wrought-iron chairs, but the last time I checked these bore no immediate relation to the sub-continent. Nor must they. After all, this is not the Epcot Centre, and Tandoori does not have to adapt forcibly to theme park specifications. Their decor is their business, and the lush plants more than made up for what others may judge as banal.
On the menu, however, I'll boldly state that more effort could have been exerted. Out of 42 items in total (including beverages), less than 16 can be immediately identified as Indian, while the rest may need evidence from a court of law in order to prove any Asian affiliation (ex: Emincé of Veal Zurichoise or Spaghetti Bolognaise).
We began with the Chicken Pakora and the Spring Rolls as starters along with two servings of Lassi (shaken yoghurt with salt or sugar). The Pakora is simply tiny pieces of boneless chicken deep-fried in a soft batter and served with yoghurt-mint sauce; the Spring Rolls were only different from other Asian counterparts because of the intense amount of ginger they contained. Both were pleasant and fresh, especially the Pakora's sauce. The Lassi was unfortunately a trifle disappointing: not cool enough, sweet enough or even shaken enough.
Our main courses arrived promptly. My dining companion's Lamb Biryani was, from my point of view, rather scant: a handful of really small lamb kebabs tossed amid a huge serving of Basmati rice. No sauce, no spice, and (worst of all, although in the case of lamb, a blessing for me) no smell. Food that doesn't smell has a serious problem; after all, the main attraction of food lies in its aroma. My Shrimp Curry was far more generous, although the little beasties were similarly rare in comparison to the rice. The shrimps were medium-sized, seriously spiced, a little too salty, and bathing in extremely rich curry. They were as enjoyable as the rice -- except for the extra salt.
For dessert, only Kulfi was available, which is perfect, it being the only authentic one on the menu. It was fantastic. A circle of the finest mastic ice-cream prepared with crumbs of sponge-cake or semolina, sprinkled with what tasted like very slightly ginger-dusted pistachios. The perfect end to an OK meal. The above removed LE114 from our pockets.
Tandoori, 11 Shehab St, Mohandessin.
Tel: 748 6301
