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Al-Ahram Weekly 20 - 26 July 2000 Issue No. 491 
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Published in Cairo by AL-AHRAM established in 1875 |
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Al-Ahram Weekly 20 - 26 July 2000 Issue No. 491
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| Published in Cairo by AL-AHRAM established in 1875 |
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Egypt Region International Economy Opinion Culture Features Travel Living Sports Profile People Time Out Chronicles Cartoons Letters In search of serenity
By Reham El-AdawiIn the deliberations that led up to our day-trip from Cairo, our group settled on three essential conditions for choosing the spot: the site had to be close to Cairo, visited infrequently and the climate moderate. Despite the hot weather that day, we agreed on Fayoum, a haven of serenity less than an hour's drive from Cairo.
But where to in Fayoum? The area's various tourist attractions, such as the Pharaonic, Graeco-Roman, Coptic and Islamic monuments are an ideal stop-off, but they failed more than one of our conditions. It was hot -- no time to be touring the historic sites with sanguine summer tourists undaunted by the Egyptian heat.
We finally chose Ain Al-Sillin, a natural spring nestled in the heart of the Fayoum Delta, where visitors can enjoy orchards that engulf terraces that practically grow out of the gardens themselves. Located between Fayoum City and Lake Qarun (eight kilometres separate the city from the spring; it is another 13 kilometres from the spring to Lake Qarun), Ain Al-Sillin is an undervalued sanctuary offering respite from the aggravation of city-life.
When you reach Ain Al-Sillin, you will find a gate on the right side of the paved road. After passing through the main entrance, the road declines sharply toward the spring. The ticket booth is to the right; both foreigners and Egyptians can enter for the paltry sum of 25 piastres.
Once inside, an overwhelmingly picturesque scene unfolds, with streams mingling among green hills and terraces and vibrant palm trees dominating the grounds. Ain Al-Sillin's orchards are famous for their apricot and mango trees and some of the purest honey is sold here. In August you can pick ripe fruits.
Up the paved path there is a cafeteria and swimming pool where visitors can relax, eat and have a drink. If you are smitten with the serene setting, why not stay the night? Ain Al-Sillin has a group of half-board chalets built on top of a hill and encircled by a wide area of greenery and decorated with scattered wooden benches and tables. Residence in these air-conditioned chalets is inexpensive; prices are equivalent to that of a two-star hotel.
Simple pleasures: Al-Sillin natural spring in Fayoum is only an hour's drive from Cairo, but it's a world apart in terms of lush greens and tranquil streams; the old water mill in Ain Al-Sillin village; the Al-Sillin spring
photos: Yussry Aql
One of Ain Al-Sillin's greatest assets is its location. Not only is it close to Cairo, but it is a short drive to Fayoum's natural protectorate, Wadi Al-Rayan. With its two artificial lakes dug in the 1970s, the area is rich in rare animal-life: gazelles, foxes, wild cats and even wild pigs. But unlike Wadi Al-Rayan, Ain Al-Sillin is lesser known and thus makes for a superb base from which to visit the sites outside Cairo, including the Medum pyramid, which you can see from the road on the way.
One member of our group was particularly taken with the spontaneous design of Ain Al-Sillin's grounds. Having been to the Karlovy Vary spring in the Czech Republic, our companion had admired the way Karlovy Vary was modernised and "updated" with technology. But this was before he discovered Al-Sillin, which blends its natural and rural setting and various facilities -- cafeterias, restaurants, chalets -- with seemless harmony.
"Harmony" is a word that comes to mind often as you sample the simple pleasures Ain Al-Sillin has to offer, like having a cup of tea in the cafe overlooking the village. Ain Al-Sillin's village, once part of the Pharaonic village Thano, is the type of place where residents still build their homes the old-fashioned way. The lower levels of these beautiful and simply-constructed houses are made of unburned brick and the upper level is completed with palm leaves.
The Fayoumi people are both warm and hospitable. From the moment you enter the village, you will be welcomed by women donned in brightly coloured galabiyas offering naturally pickled olives and lemons. Umm Mohamed, an old peanut seller, welcomed us into her house. There, she showed us her brick oven and offered us a much-needed drink from her zir (a large clay jug for storing water).
Other residents display their palm-leaf handicrafts, such as bags, hats and necklaces. The beauty of these hand-made works inspired the Fayoum governorate (to which Ain Al-Sillin is affiliated) to organise regular exhibitions. A market for various types of date palms and its products is also being set up at Al-Sillin.
The beauty of the place is crowned with Al-Sillin water mill. Built in the 1950s, the mill was used to grind wheat and corn. Though it is now obsolete, it still merits a visit. On our way back, we glimpsed a sign saying that weddings can be held at Al-Sillin parks. So if you are interested in folkloric traditions, try to visit on a Thursday.
A question that may cross the reader's mind is why the spring was named Al-Sillin. It refers to the abundance of suyul (torrential streams) in the area. "In the Arabic language, Sillin means 'two streams'," explained Adel Abdel-Baqi, a guide at Fayoum's Egyptian Tourist Authority office.
The route to Ain Al-Sillin
Ain Al-Sillin can be reached by bus, or take a taxi from Fayoum service-taxi station. You can also take a bus or service-taxi from Lake Qarun, 13 kilometres from the spring.
Useful services:
-- Egyptian Tourist Authority at Fayoum Tel 084 342 313 or 084 342 586
-- Al-Sillin reception office Tel 522 549
-- Chalets Tel 522 113
-- Tourism police Tel 327 928
-- The nearest hospital, Fidimin Hospital Tel 522 535
