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Al-Ahram Weekly 20 - 26 July 2000 Issue No. 491 
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Published in Cairo by AL-AHRAM established in 1875 |
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Al-Ahram Weekly 20 - 26 July 2000 Issue No. 491
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| Published in Cairo by AL-AHRAM established in 1875 |
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Beatnik chic: Upscale developers may have their eye on the place, but Dahab is really about stretching your dollar
photos: Thomas Hartwell
Down and out in Dahab
By Fatemah Farag
Egypt Region International Economy Opinion Culture Features Travel Living Sports Profile People Time Out Chronicles Cartoons Letters It was the end of the month -- a time of little liquidity, but my nerves were frazzled all the same. In dire need of the caress of cool sea breezes, I wondered where to go on a limited budget in a country whose beaches seem to have been overtaken by either resorts of the five-star variety or privately-owned housing complexes.
The answer to this question is one I learned a couple of years ago, and if you are in a similar predicament, take note: the destination you are looking for is Dahab. As I packed my duffle bag and headed once again for this south Sinai resort a few weeks ago, I thought back to my induction into the Dahab experience some years back and the relationship that has since grown with a town whose name literally means "gold."
It was on the suggestion of friends that I considered venturing a trip to Dahab, a small beach town northeast of Sharm Al-Sheikh known for being part of the sixties and seventies hippie trail. At the time, the local press, already contemptuous of the site as a destination for mealy backpackers, launched campaigns portraying Dahab as an iniquitous haven for drug abuse and group sex -- none of which is to my taste. Nor is "roughing it" exactly my forte. So you can understand why I was more than a little apprehensive about the prospects. It was a moment of rare courage when I bit the bullet and headed into the unknown.
It was a decision I will never regret. There is a splash of hedonism to this quirky coastal town and it is easily likeable for those who come seeking something different from standard resort fare. A few Dahab-knowledgeable friends took it upon themselves to take my hand and show me around, and a place I would never have thought possible unfolded before me. I discovered a Dahab that not only offers great waters for swimming and snorkelling, lovely places to eat and what has become my favourite bar nation-wide, but also a Dahab made up of singular people whom I have been very happy to befriend. It's the type of place where relaxation comes with donning a laid back demeanour and the socially "out" are more likely to be "in" -- modesty wins out over luxury in Dahab.
I will never, however, forget my first day in Dahab. It was a cool spring day in April of 1998 when I was confronted with not only the beauty, but the bizarre nature of the place. Crystal-clear waters of a deep-blue hue contrast with the thick foliage of the palm trees that mark the main drag of Dahab, known as Asalah or "the Mazbat." Add to this image the striking mountains that make up the town's backdrop and you have some idea of the spectacular picture that greets the weary traveller. Then, there are the man-made aspects; take the restaurants and coffee shops that line the Mazbat, for example. They are all designed to maintain some kind of "Bedouin look" -- the open-air seating areas are made up of klims (rugs) and pillows arranged around low tables and divided by pieces of fallen palm. Yet, for all the effort made to preserve an indigenous effect, the establishments play reggae for most of the day and sport names such as Al Capone, the Laughing Buddha and the Jumping Kangaroo. Another oddity you are likely to encounter is the rather gruff staff -- basically over-assertive hustlers who are out to get you as you pass by. There are other drawbacks: in certain areas sanitation is not as one could hope for.
In the days that followed my first day in Dahab, I learned that to take these failings at face value is a grave and shortsighted mistake. In the trips that followed, including my recent visit this month, I have seen the town slowly smoothing over its rougher edges; parts of a stone sidewalk have been installed across the Mazbat, beaches seem cleaner, hustlers are less zealous and -- I must report faithfully -- there was no group sex to be found. In many ways it seems that Dahab is poised to move beyond a troubled adolescence to enter maturity.
Dahab is a small town; when one talks of "downtown" or the Mazbat, one is describing an approximately two-kilometre stretch along the beach. It is a town with little sprawl; almost everything is on the beach. You walk, shop, eat and drink -- even access the Internet -- at places with amazing waterfront views. So keep your swimsuit on, as you never know when the urge to plunge into the water will take you; maybe while having a meal or getting a henna tattoo and then all you'll have to do is flip off your sandals and go!
HOW TO GET THERE: Unfortunately, there is no easy way to make the trip to Dahab, only levels of comfort among relatively comparable travelling times. Dahab has no airport, so if you want to fly, you will have to book a flight to Sharm Al-Sheikh and then take a cab to Dahab. The latter part of the trip will take about an hour and a half and cost no less than LE150.
A much cheaper option is the bus, although it is not for the faint of heart. Following the advice of Dahab frequenters, my first trip was made on the midnight East Delta bus. If you are claustrophobic or susceptible to car-sickness -- or simply adverse to cramped rides that last over a quarter of the day -- there is nothing that can prepare you for the nine-hour ride that is to come. Small seats; continuous B-movies blaring on the TV monitor; and frequent stops in which various soldiers and officers make everyone show their ID (and, in some very specific cases, like an Egyptian woman travelling on her own, provide an explanation as to why you could possibly be heading to Dahab, of all places) can make for an unpleasant, if economical and safe journey.
Although we were promised a direct trip to Dahab, we were forced to get off the bus in Sharm Al-Sheikh and wait for another bus to take us the rest of the way. The red sun rising out of the waters of the Red Sea was spectacular to watch, but by the time we arrived at Dahab several hours later, morale was pretty much at a low point. This said, the ride costs around LE50.
There are two other options: taxi or microbus. A hired taxi will cost on average a steep LE300 and will take about two hours less than the bus ride. A microbus will run cheaper, but they are notoriously dangerous as highway vehicles.
LOCAL TRANSPORTATION FACILITIES: Once in Dahab, almost everything is accessible by foot and cars are not allowed on the main drag. However, when in need, there are open pickup trucks and a few motley jeeps that play the role of taxi. A cross-town ride in the back of a truck costs around LE5.
These same vehicles can be contracted to take you to out-of-town beaches and snorkelling and diving sites, such as the popular Blue Hole, north of Dahab.
Prices are negotiable depending on the season and the distance. If you are going the whole distance to Nuweiba, roughly an hour's drive north on the coast, the cost is LE150, which gives some kind of idea of what shorter trips should cost.
Source: Egypt -- A Practical Guide
WHERE TO STAY: Despite its fame as a low-budget resort, Dahab has recently acquired some fancy facilities, such as the Hilton, Helnan and Novotel resorts located south of the Mazbat. For the real Dahab experience, however, head for one of the smaller establishments. For a little extra dough, one can get clean, air-conditioned rooms with private bathrooms in the range of LE70 to a little over LE100 per double room.
On the south side of the beach is Christina Residence, which has two sections -- the original facing the desert and a newly-opened section on the sea. A few spots down is the Nesima Resort, which is one of the few establishments with a swimming pool, albeit a small one. Between Christina and Nesima in both location and range is the Yasmine: Little House on the Beach. It has two front rooms with balconies that are quite charming, although the rest of the establishment is somewhat cramped.
On the other side of town and beyond the lighthouse is a quieter section of the beach considered "out of town." There are several hotels here that deserve mention, such as the Mirage and Blue Beach, but the one I have frequented is the Amanda Hotel. The Amanda offers huts with private bathrooms and fans, but these are definitely not an advisable option in the summer. There are also rooms housed in a clean two-story building. The only drawback is that like Cinderella's fairy godmother, the Amanda locks its front door at midnight, so if you are into late nights, you'll be ringing the doorbell and waking up the staff to get in.
Also on the quiet side of the beach is Eldorado, for those more interested in the camp scene. Within town there is the Crazy Camel. Camp prices vary, but usually stay within the range of LE5 to LE20. So that no one can call me a wimp, I did stay at the Eldorado camp a while back. The mattresses on the floor were uncomfortable and I was very grateful for a friend who travelled with extra clean sheets. The collective bathrooms are places where you keep your shoes on when in the shower; but really, the kitchen produces a mean sahlab, so one is reluctant to complain.
Perhaps the most disconcerting aspect about accommodation in Dahab, cheap or expensive, is the lack of fresh clean water. Well water is not for drinking and leaves an unpleasant feel after a shower, not to mention the fact that your soap will not sud. As a Dahab veteran with a fetish for cleanliness, I suggest you keep mineral water handy to brush your teeth with and travel with a couple of towels (packing bed sheets, in most cases, is an excessive measure).
HERE TO EAT AND DRINK: Throughout Dahab there are supermarkets offering a variety of staples and in certain markets, such as Ghazalah, you can get fresh fruit. Ready for a meal? I strongly suggest the following: on the southern side of Mazbat is Toota, which sports the facade of a ship and has an extremely pleasant open air "deck" overlooking the beach. If it is not too hot, the deck is ideal for a cold beer and a snack.
On the same side of the beach is Nesima. The restaurant is said to be very good, but for my part, I have a real thing for their bar. Up until the last time I went, this was a first floor establishment, both noisy and cosy, with a great counter, peanuts in their shells and comfortable chairs and tables set up for those in search of a quiet place to enjoy their drinks while looking out on the sea. The bar has since moved to the roof, but its still the same great bar -- same peanuts and equally dim lighting, where you can tip your chair back and gaze at the stars for hours on end. There is a happy hour from 7.00 to 9.00 every evening and a party every Friday night.
As I gazed at the Guinness and Carlsberg taps not so long ago, I found myself up against the hardest decision of the day; while the barman sliced the head of my beer I looked up at a clear sky and realised once again the charm that comes with the simple pleasures of life.
Nesima is also great for sandwiches; particularly recommendable are the club sandwiches and burgers, all of which are quite immense. But for a truly extraordinary food experience, go further south a few notches and let yourself indulge in the Lakhbatita -- a culinary and cultural experience for which we could do nothing less than devote a separate piece (see review by Peter Snowndon).
Now on the other side of town is Dai Pescatori, an Italian restaurant that arguably has some of the best coffee ever, served in dainty cups and saucers covered in painted flowers. Dai Pescatori is neat, clean and also has the advantage of monopolising a section of the beach where it is particularly easy to get into the water.
The Dahab beach is quite stony, but in this particular area the gravel is soft and the drop easy. They have a small verandah overlooking the water and during the day they put out chaise longues on the beach. At sunset these are exchanged for comfortable chairs and tables where you can have dinner -- or whatever. Personally, I like to go in the late afternoon for a swim and then watch the sunset while being served hot, freshly baked bread. As the setting rays of the sun intensify the pink glow of the water, you can enjoy great pasta and freshly grilled squid. If there's room left in your stomach, on cool days they have Tiramisu and on warmer ones, the ice cream is simply divine.
In the town bazaar there are some nondescript restaurants that mainly serve the locals. Here you can have some no-nonsense grilled fish and there is even a fetir shop. There is good food to be had in Dahab at good prices, but pay particular attention to freshness and cleanliness.
WHAT TO DO: Well, you can lounge on the beach, either within the Mazbat or further south, where the terrain is sandier. In the area called Al-Lisan, many a windsurfer can be seen taking in the prime conditions, or head up north past the Eldorado Camp where the Eel Garden is -- the water there is very accessible.
If its reading material you want while lounging out on the beach, a newspaper man makes rounds every day at around noon. His prices are a bit steep, but you can get everything from Al-Ahram to The Independent and The Sunday Times. Alternately, at most supermarkets you can rent or buy second-hand paperback novels left by tourists before you. If you want to connect with the outside world via cyberspace, Dahab is full of Internet cafés offering an hour for about LE20. Most open early (around 10.00am) and close late.
In a more active mood? Water sports are the obvious answer, with snorkelling and diving topping the agenda. I am not a diver but I am told the diving is good, and sites such as the Blue Hole and the Fish Bowl are pretty well known. There is an abundance of diving centres where you can rent equipment and receive training, but take care in choosing a centre, especially if you are a novice. Be wary of those offering very cheap services; make sure the centre has all the required facilities and is properly registered.
I am nonetheless an avid amateur snorkeller and can vouch for a good time if you follow the route between the Eel Garden and around the lighthouse. A word of caution, however, watch where you go in and out of the water. If they are not easily accessible, you risk cutting yourself on the rocks. It happened to a friend of mine a year back and although we received good service at the Dahab hospital, the experience was quite unpleasant. (And to think I was swimming right next to her -- what if a shark had caught whiff of us?)
An evening option is to shoot some pool at Dyarna Hotel, which is further south from Lakhbatita. An open-air version of the same sport can be found at Napoleon, in the Mazbat area. The former, however, has better facilities.
Should your thirst for consumerism kick in, there are, of course, the shops. What stands out most in Dahab-wear are the hippie-style clothes of the one-size-fits-all variety. Bright dyes and patterns signify Dahab chic, which incidentally, is also a budget chic -- prices range from LE5 to LE20 for tops, pants, dresses and sarongs. Also in abundance are brightly coloured klims, colourful bead necklaces and bracelets and a few shops selling the usual Egyptian bazaar ware. While at the market, you might also want to have a henna tattoo for around LE5, or maybe even have your hair braided at one of the African stalls.
Getting even more adventurous, there are excursions out of Dahab. Take a desert safari into the mainland or go further north to Nuweiba, where the unchallenged centre of attention is "Uleen", the much-loved lone dolphin (see adjoining articles). Another trip out of Dahab is the Abu Galum protectorate, which locals rave "is just like Dahab used to be before it became 'so developed'." The latter two excursions can be arranged through local travel agencies, or get a guidebook, rent a car and do the trip yourself.
So, forgo the frills of five-star life and get back to basics-- pull down your worn out jeans, the canvas bag and the flip-flops and go for the Gold.
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