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Al-Ahram Weekly 17 - 23 August 2000 Issue No. 495 
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Published in Cairo by AL-AHRAM established in 1875 |
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Al-Ahram Weekly 17 - 23 August 2000 Issue No. 495
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| Published in Cairo by AL-AHRAM established in 1875 |
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Egypt Region International Economy Opinion Culture Features Travel Living Sports Profile People Time Out Chronicles Cartoons Letters Upstream on a midsummer night
By Gamal Nkrumah
Have you left it too late to book a summer holiday? Well, if you think you have, don't worry. Head south. The height of summer is not high season for Nile cruises. Most people prefer the winter and the cooler shoulder months of the spring and fall to holiday in Luxor and Aswan. In mid to late summer, there is always room on a Nile cruise and since bookings are light, you can pick and choose the vessel and cabin that suits you best. This wide array of options also allows you the luxury of freely choosing a departure date that fits your schedule. Furthermore, summer prices are roughly half those of the winter season.
Despite the heat, the summer is a time of peace and serenity. In the winter, cruise ship after cruise ship jostles for berths all along the 232km stretch of river between Luxor and Aswan. So, make the most of the low season. You will sidestep the winter squeeze when the Nile tends to be teeming with holiday-makers aboard jam-packed cruise ships. Low prices, better individual-tailored service, great food and surprisingly good weather -- the heat is exaggerated. What more does one need for a nice break?
The cruise ships might be slow to fill in summer, but EgyptAir is not. Scheduled flights during the low season fill fast, especially on weekends. During the summer low season, EgyptAir cuts the number of scheduled flights to Luxor, Aswan and Abu Simbel. In order to avoid the weekly scramble for seats between Thursdays and Mondays, book well head. Grab a cancellation if you want to extend your cruise for a few more days. But don't ever try stand-by at either the Luxor or Aswan international airports on a Thursday, Friday or Monday -- these three days tend to be fully-booked. These are the days cruises normally begin and end.
In summer, the water level of the Nile is at its highest, and consequently annoying delays at locks are greatly diminished. In winter, the long queues of boats at the Esna lock, in particular, can be especially vexing. It is not unusual to be delayed for hours. This will invariably mean rescheduling or actually skipping some sightseeing destinations.
There is much to be said for a Nile cruise getaway in summer. You not only escape the perpetual din of Cairo, you also avoid the clamour of overbooked seaside resorts. Paradise lies up the Nile. In Upper Egypt, you can still find a profusion of verdant green, piercing blue skies, peace, quiet and a free expanse of glorious space. Aboard a five-star deluxe vessel, with a light wind ruffling the surface of the Eternal River, luxuriant greenery and stark majestic rock barren mountains present a spectacular backdrop. Sunsets on deck are quite simply divine.
Al-Karnak Temple photo: Mohamed Wassim
Small wonder the ancients thoroughly enjoyed travelling by boat. Since the earliest beginnings of Egyptian civilisation, these journeys have been celebrated. In the cemetery of one of Egypt's earliest urban settlements -- Hieraconpolis, the Falcon city -- Tomb 100, a rock-hewn tomb, there is a series of river vessels depicted on its walls. Indeed, not much seems to have changed since then. On all of the ships were almost modern-looking cabins. This was a time even before the Pharaohs. Hieraconpolis is the very cradle of civilisation. Sadly, it is not included in most tours. Since it lies in the heart of a region rich in the monuments of millennia, it is overshadowed by the grandeur of later sites.
Luxor is Egypt's, and perhaps the world's, indisputable antiquities capital. Aswan, Egypt's southernmost city and gateway to Africa, is also a mind-boggling rich treasure trove of archaeological heritage. There is so much to see and never enough time.
With the hordes of holiday-makers elsewhere, summer is the optimal time to take in the sites. Many of the temple funerary grounds are so vast you will have acres of ruins to yourself. Note, however, that it is always wise to get up at the crack of dawn and tour the sites as early as possible. Not only does the temperature progressively increase, so does the size of the crowds.
So, who are the crazed people spreading misinformation and outright lies about the horrors of Nile cruises in the summer? "Only mad tourists visit the south in summer," is the standard wisdom. It is often spread assiduously at parties, the workplace, among friends and to complete strangers on the streets. It has acquired a certain air of authority and is simply taken for granted. Admittedly, Luxor and Aswan are quite rightly viewed as winter resorts and, yes, Upper Egypt can get unbearably hot in July and August. Yet, in the pampered sanctuary of a luxury cruise ship, you need not worry about the weather.
The trick is not to venture into the sweltering heat. Visit the picturesque towns and the magnificent temples only in the cool of the early morning. Then get back to the ship before noon and remain in air-conditioned opulence throughout the hideously hot afternoons. Alternatively, you could spend the afternoon on the top deck, sipping your favourite drink and alternatively dipping into a book and then the ship pool. Such hedonism is counter-balanced if the book is about ancient Egypt. Don't fear the sun. On board, there is plenty of shade. For the less idle, most five-star deluxe ships are equipped with a small, but adequate gym.
Then in early evening, a refreshing breeze breaks the heat and a dazzling sunset marks the evening. Up the Nile, the vessel speeds smoothly in mid-river from one wondrous ruin to another. After the sun sets, one can disembark for more shopping and sightseeing in the comfort of the night air.
Food is another glory of a Nile cruise, at least judging by the healthy appetites of my fellow tourists. Nothing on the tables was left to waste. Smartly-dressed European ladies were often sighted shoving fruit into their handbags. The friendly Nubian waiters simply turned a blind eye. Ample proof that the weather was agreeable, for the heat destroyed no one's appetite.
Often, I find adhering to set itineraries to be hellish. Yet, I'm not particularly good with maps and I loathe asking for directions. Furthermore, I have always been rather slow at making holiday decisions. My vacations have invariably been short breaks at short notice and preferably at close range. I have no time for serious holiday preparations. Searching for the perfect hideaway, even in this fast age of e-commerce, is too exhausting.
Consequently, since I loathe and detest being organised, it is a joy to have someone organise a weekend for me, taking into account everything I want to see and do. One advantage a five-star holiday cruise has over a similarly-spangled stationary hotel is that it takes you to the sites. While you wait, everything your heart desires is available. You don't have to waste precious time wondering where to go for dinner or how to get to this temple or that monument. Upon returning to the ship, a night of entertainment awaits if you are so tempted.
Package tours, however, do have their drawbacks . It is impossible to include all the historic sites. Inevitably, most of the sites off the beaten tracks are ruled out. Yet, tours are not inflexible. Short visits to sites not included on the itinerary can often be arranged either with the help of the cruise ship tour guide or, depending on one's budget, in a private capacity. Either way, it often comes at the expense of scheduled entertainment on the cruise ship.
For those adventurous enough the rewards are great, but so is a relaxing afternoon by the deck pool for those not foolhardy enough to brave the midday sun. An Upper Egyptian heat wave could send the temperatures soaring above 50 Celsius. Heat wave scares aside, don't let the beastliness of the weather put you off, but precautions need to be taken. Naturally, those who fail to take sensible precautions risk suffering a life-threatening heatstroke. Children especially must have their heads regularly wetted. And it is always useful to keep a straw hat or a cloth cap handy. Also, kids get bored quickly with the same headdress and love to change, and exchange, hats. Shoes are optional. It is always quite a thrill for young and old alike, to know that one does not have to pack a pair of shoes to take along for a vacation. Comfortable sandals will do for the sightseeing at least. As for the dancing at night, many holiday-makers prefer to get down to it barefoot.
The itinerary varies little between the major lines that ply the Nile between Luxor and Aswan. But standards and quality vary enormously. As a rule, the more up-market cruise ships tend to employ better-paid and well-seasoned tour guides. A bad tour guide can ruin a trip. Sonesta, Presidential and the Mövenpick ships are reputedly the best. Most itineraries are scheduled to start on a Friday or a Saturday. Ordinarily you can choose between seven nights & eight days -- four nights & five days -- three nights & four days.
This summer might well be the last time foreign and local sightseers can get outrageously cheap deals. Tourism in Egypt is bouncing back from the doldrums. The temples are getting busy again. Even off season, the Valley of the Kings was overcrowded by 10.00am. Mercifully, our tour group was on its way to Al-Deir Al-Bahri, Queen Hatshepsut's eternal abode. Many European carriers are starting scheduled services to Luxor this winter. During the first week of August when I travelled south, there were scores of cruise ships moored along the Corniche in Luxor and Aswan.
ASWAN: Aswan, no provincial backwater, is nevertheless somewhat sleepy. It is a city of around 500,000, but its pace is noticeably slower than Luxor, with a population of barely 300,000. Furthermore, Aswan has little of the commercial kitsch that mars Luxor. Aswan is truly magical and a touch surreal. Most buildings are daubed in inviting salmon and pink. Others are constructed with the famous red Aswan granite. The mountains around this pink city glow in the soft hues of a fine rosé.The city sprawls lazily on the banks of the Nile like some ancient princess unfettered by the hustle and bustle of modern times. Even in the marketplace, a treasure trove of Nubian and African artifacts, the ambiance is amicable and relaxed. Aswan is also a surprisingly green city of gardens and parks. Yet, it receives less rainfall than any other city in Egypt. Its winnowing roads and tree-lined avenues spread across the hills, valleys and riverside seem like the tentacles of some colourful riparian creature.
On the tour path, the High Dam and the unfinished obelisk kick-start most official itineraries. Many itineraries include a visit to Aswan's botanical gardens and a view of the Agha Khan Mausoleum by felucca. Although, Aswan's Nubian Museum is rarely on the tour agenda, it should be.
Unfortunately, old Nubia was tragically obliterated forever by the High Dam. It now lies submerged beneath the waters of Lake Nasser. However, before time ran out for the ancient land, sites were excavated and entire temples moved to higher ground. Of these, the Temple of Philae, called the "Pearl of Egypt" by Bonaparte, most strikingly captures the essence of ancient Aswan in all its glory. The temples on the sacred island of Philae were painstakingly removed and reconstructed on the island of Agilikia, as Philae drowned. New Philae is a re-creation, faithful in position and orientation.
We were greeted upon our arrival at Agilikia by the breathtaking beauty of the graceful columns of Diocletian's gateway and Trajan's kiosk, mirrored as we came ashore in the glassy waters of the Nile. More wonders were in store for us in Agilikia: the tragedy of Osiris, Lord of the Dead, and the triumph of his Queen Consort, Isis, were inscribed on walls and columns.
Philae, like most of the temples included in our itinerary, are Ptolemaic in origin -- Greek reconstructions of more ancient Egyptian originals. The great entrance pylons penetrated deep into the cloudless periwinkle sky. Adorning the facade was a figure of Ptolemy XII in royal Egyptian attire conquering his enemies in classical Egyptian style: the Greek ruler grasps three symbolic enemies and holds his mace aloft ready to smite them as offerings to the gods Isis, Horus and Hathor.
Ptolemy XII tried to win the affection of his Egyptian subjects by adhering to their traditions. Like the Pharaohs, he married his sister, Tryphanea, and even adopted an Egyptian name, Iwaenpaneternehem Seteppah Irmaat. Yet, he couldn't speak his subjects' language and they hated him for imposing heavy taxes. He was derogatorily referred to as "the flute player."
The advent of Greek rule in Egypt commenced with the conquest of the country by Alexander the Great in 332BC. The Ptolemaic period lasted until 30BC, when, with the suicide of Cleopatra V, Egypt was relegated to tributary status as the "Granary of Rome." The indigenous Egyptian temples, originally built in the dynastic periods with a few dating to pre-dynastic times, have all but vanished. During the Graeco-Roman times, the original Egyptian sites were built over, but still dedicated to the very same Egyptian gods.
Always ask your guide to point out the differences in style between the original Egyptian, the Ptolemaic and the Roman. At first glance, these differences might not be obvious. After all, the reliefs on the pylons all show Greek and Roman rulers in Egyptian dress and worshipping Egyptian gods. But, you would be surprised how the differences stare you in the face once they are explained.
When going to Aswan, it is always a good idea to fly as early as possible -- insist on a direct flight, one that doesn't stop in Luxor. This avoids a long delay. Note that EgyptAir flights tend to be very erratic and schedules sometimes change on short notice. A couple of hours delay can ruin an entire day.
KOM OMBO : Sailing to Kom Ombo, we visited the temple shared by the crocodile god, Sobek, and the falcon god, Horus the Elder, avenger of his murdered father Osiris. Few ancient temples are as dramatic as Kom Ombo, perched majestically on a high mound and surrounded by lush fields of sugar cane and banana. As our cruise ship approached the temple my heart skipped a beat.
Perhaps we were overawed by the dramatic setting, or maybe it was a silly surge of psychosomatic delusions, but we all suddenly began to develop strange symptoms and pains. All aboard started to display varying degrees of physical discomfort. Miraculously, the ailments disappeared once we left the vicinity of the temple. For mother it was her knees playing up again, for my son, Karim, it was a bout of coughing and I suffered intense pain in my chest and abdomen. In the end, I trotted up the gentle slope alone to the temple hoping a little supplication prayer on their behalf to Imhotep, the god of medicine and Sobek, the crocodile god, would ameliorate our conditions.
The Crocodilopolis in Kom Ombo is eerie. Some of us took a peek at the huge mummified crocodiles stocked in a small reliquary, but few lingered. Why the ancients revered these reptiles remains a secret. But what is certain is that the reverence was strong. Kom Ombo once housed hundreds of the mummified reptiles. Crocodile eggs were also held in abundance.
Kom Ombo's fame is also derived from the fact that it was once the Lourdes of ancient Egypt. The reliefs, exquisitely drawn and some sheltered from the glaring sun are still vividly coloured, show a plethora of surgical instruments including forceps, scalpels and shears. The sick came from all over the country in search of health and solace. Many were healed and returned time and again to pay tribute and give thanks to the gods.
EDFU: Then we all set sail to the large market town of Edfu. Roughly half way between Luxor and Aswan, Edfu's temple is another Ptolemaic reconstruction of an older Egyptian temple. It is dedicated to the falcon god Horus. Built between 237 and 57BC, it is the most complete temple in all of Egypt. Its reliefs are in a remarkable state of preservation.
We got up at dawn and by six we were standing before the temple entrance pylons. High above us stood Ptolemy III, the temple founder, making offerings to Horus. Straight ahead of us at the base of the pylons was Ptolemy XII, who completed the temple. He is depicted defeating his enemies in the presence of Horus and his consort, the cow goddess Hathor. The whole was enveloped in the pale lilac of the early morning sky. My four-year-old son stood spellbound. The temple of Horus in Edfu echoes the wonders of ancient Hieraconpolis, Greek for Falcon City.
Despite its Greek name, Hieraconpolis contains one of the last remaining vestiges of an authentic Egyptian temple. The reliefs on the temple of Horus in Edfu show the foundation plan and design based on the Per-Wer, or Great House, of ancient Hieraconpolis -- the grandest and most important shrine of pre-dynastic Egypt. A magnificent mirror-polished granite shrine is hidden in the inner sanctuary of the temple. The golden cult statue of Horus once stood in this autochthonous shrine. Reliefs depict riverine scenes of the ancient festival of "Happy Reunion," when the statue of Horus of Edfu is reunited with the effigy of his wife Hathor from Dendera halfway on the Nile. The affirmation of this union is celebrated in pomp and ceremony. Much of the Edfu temple was buried beneath a 19th century Egyptian village. French Egyptologist Auguste Mariette, founder of the Egyptian Museum, evicted its inhabitants in order to resurrect the glory of the ancient site.
ESNA: Esna, 55km south of Luxor, was our next destination. During Roman times, temples continued to be constructed and the Esna temple is a beautiful example. The small Ptolemaic temple dedicated to the ram-headed god Khnum was not included in our itinerary, but I secretly arranged with our tour guide to visit it with an English couple who were on a longer cruise. I was sworn to secrecy, for the guide would have gotten into deep trouble had my visit come to the attention of the cruise manager.
I quickly slipped off the boat and did not look back. The little temple was beautiful. Apparently, it was not always small. Once upon a time, the Esna temple was a huge and important complex. Little remains of the original temple except the hypostyle hall. The later Ptolemaic and Roman remains were built between the first and the third centuries AD. The reliefs are exceptionally well-preserved, many retaining the original brilliant colours.
At the Esna temple, the differences between the Greek and Roman styles are quite obvious, even to an amateur such as myself. The reliefs that adorn the hypostyle's columns and walls show Roman emperors dressed as Egyptian Pharaohs comically depicted dancing before the gods. The austere autochthonous prince would have never sacrificed his dignity in such a manner. Roman emperors had no such qualms. In Esna, they danced with total abandon before the gods -- a dance which looks pretty much like the modern English Morris dance.
In the grounds of the temple, I spotted a lone statue of Sekhmet, the lioness goddess. Nearby, the Roman temple was a distressing sight. It is adorned with some of the most brilliantly-coloured reliefs in Egypt, but it is deteriorating quickly due to the salt of rising water levels. Our guide gave it no more than five more years. It is literally falling apart.
Once back on board, an American asked what I had been doing with myself. "Oh, just went to take a quick look at the market," I said. Esna market is one of the best places in Egypt in which to buy cotton T-shirts and traditional galaleeb (the plural of galabiya.). I bought my son a couple of brightly-coloured cotton T-shirts and a baby blue galabiya. I also got myself one for the galabiya party later in the evening. Another attraction of Esna is its tasty Nile perch. That evening we had a delicious feast of fresh Esna fish.
LUXOR: Our final destination was Luxor, formerly Thebes -- the fabled Pharaonic capital. The word "luxury" is itself derived from the name Luxor, which in turn is a corruption of the Arabic al-uqsur, or palaces. Luxor is awash with the glory of the ancient world, but unlike Aswan most of its temples and royal tombs are not situated in beautiful riverine settings. A visit to these fine remains entails long and arduous walks. In summer, it is absolutely essential that sightseers start out as early as possible. Getting up around 4.00am would be wise.
Only the Temple of Luxor is on the water edge. First built by Amenhotep III of the 18th Dynasty and enlarged during the reign of the famous Ramses II of the 20th Dynasty, it is devoted to love. For here the god Amun and his consort Mut, the vulture goddess, came together in the Opet festival. Their statues were carried shoulder high by the high priests in a ceremonial boat once a year for their "honeymoon." This festival is celebrated in reliefs on the towering colonnade constructed by Amenhotep III.
On the northern reaches of Luxor stands the vast Temple of Karnak covering an area of two hectares. One pylon, originally built by Amenhotep III, was once completely covered in gold. Only a sad vestige of the illustrious past survives today. It is impossible to give a befitting description of Karnak in this article, for it is perhaps the grandest of all Egyptian temples.
On the western bank of the Nile, at Luxor, is the Valley of the Kings, the Valley of the Queens, Medinat Habu, the Memnon Colossi, the Ramesseum and my favourite -- Al-Deir Al-Bahri, where the 18th Dynasty Queen Hatshepsut was buried. The great mortuary temple at Al-Deir Al-Bahri is, like India's Taj Mahal, a veritable monument of love. Built by her lover, the Chief Architect and Overseer of Works Senenmut, Hatshepsut had his image immortalised within her tomb.
To secure power, this queen was obliged to lie to her people. She lied about her sex because Egyptians would not accept a woman pharaoh. She then lived the lie, walking around in a false beard and men's clothing. She lied about her birth, too. She legitimised her rule by claiming to be the offspring of the god Amun.
Her reign was peaceful and prosperous. Hatshepsut had beaten the proverbial swords into ploughshares. The cliffs surrounding her mausoleum are honeycombed with the tombs of her servants. Senenmut, her love, lay buried directly beneath her. As I left, I turned around for one last glance and marvelled at Al-Deir Al-Bahri's splendour. It is difficult to think that such a magnificent setting was the scene of the massacre of 58 tourists in 1997. But, judging by the crowds that poured in that early August morning, the memory of that terrible incident is fast fading.
