Al-Ahram Weekly On-line 21 - 27 September 2000 Issue No. 500
Published in Cairo by AL-AHRAM established in 1875

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Innovate, don't imitate

By Injy El-Kashef

If you haven't heard of Mona Amer, you simply don't invest enough time in food talk -- a grave mistake. After the television show that revolutionised eating habits inside Egyptian homes (who needs all that meat?) and prompted greengrocers to supply as yet unfamiliar, but now in heavy demand, vegetables and fruits on a regular basis and at reasonable prices (which began to be cultivated for the first time on Egyptian soil) now comes the restaurant. The chefs are trained by the lady herself, observing the stipulated hygienic measures and cooking methods. The restaurant is highly elegant, though far from pretentious: large and comfortable carved wood seats, an interior layout enhancing cosiness by separating dining tables with columns and plants, beautiful chandeliers, elaborate curtain designs and floors a pleasure to tread on.

A terribly polite waiter took our order and walked off with the confidence that working at such a place entails. Mine all mine was the Arugula Soup (LE8/LE12) topped with roasted garlic, red pepper and walnuts. Now the thing about this restaurant is that you feel safe. You know that as much attention is attributed to nutrition and health as to taste. So as I sipped my delicious soup I also felt content that I was doing my body a favour. My husband took the other option, the North African Soup (LE9/LE14) originating from Libya, with mixed herbs, orzo and tiny beef cubes in a tomato base. Positively succulent, nicely spiced, great idea for the winter.

Next I had the Antipasto for starters (LE9/LE16) with artichoke, roasted red and green peppers, olive and garlic in olive oil and lemon juice. Served warm, this is a perfect light meal in its large version, especially when accompanied by the freshly baked bread and unique butter dip (of which only 20 per cent is butter and the rest herbs, courtesy of Amer) provided by the house. He had the Shrimp and Beetroot (LE18/LE30) with mustard, mayonnaise and capers, which was a perfect follow-up to his soup as it is cool, calm and collected.

As for the main dishes, my Beef Tenderloin (LE38), marinated in balsamic vinegar and grilled on lava stones with vegetables Napoleon, was out of this world. No meat tenderisers used in this kitchen, and yet the beef was so absolutely, universally, intergalactically tender and sweet that I barely needed to chew. If lava stones can produce such a miraculous taste, the ones on our bathroom floor are certainly not where they should be. He opted for Orloff (LE42), roasted veal medallion stuffed with soubiase and covered with mornay sauce, which was delicious but no match for my beef. What was it that made the food so tasty? Olive oil, the Mona Amer stamp, the exclusion of cooking short-cuts, the freshness of the ingredients, one cannot be sure; yet one thing is certain: as they remove the huge porcelain plate from in front of you, you want to look up and say "Please sir, can I have some more?" It's about the composition of your plate, the chemistry between the colours, the textures, the herbs; it's about the joy of eating healthy and different; about feeling content, and in safe hands.

Desserts. One Tarte Tatin (LE12) for me, one Dancing Pyramid -- creamy pyramid with nuts, candied fruits and chocolate ganache for LE19 -- for my husband and we were one happy couple. The caramel, the thick, rich and unbelievable caramel sauce on that tarte and the chocolate sauce almost overflowing from his plate surrounding that elevated structure of Amer's invention are beyond human comprehension. No wonder the lady's on her way to the cooking Olympics in Germany (representing Egypt for the first time ever). Just give them the Egyptian pyramid and hear them moan.

Fine Touch, 25 Misr Helwan road, Al-Zeini Tower, Maadi entrance no1, opposite Cairotel, Maadi. Tel: 750 9056/7

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