Al-Ahram Weekly On-line 30 Nov. - 6 Dec. 2000 Issue No.510

Egypt Region International Economy Opinion Culture Special Travel Living Sports Profile People Time Out Chronicles Cartoons Letters

Join the crowd

By Injy El-Kashef

El-Sheikh Yassin El-Tuhami photo: Sherif Sonbol

Yes, there is television to fill the post-iftar hours with all kinds of special programmes, but some people can only endure more of the same for so many years. To others (unfortunately a few) overeating at iftar, then overindulging one's sweet tooth and finally parking oneself in front of the TV screen for several hours can seem obscenely unhealthy for both body and mind -- not to mention soul, particularly during the very month intended for soul purification. Indeed it does seem that with the passing of years many Muslims have drifted further and further away from the raison d'être of Ramadan, turning the holy month, ironically, into the consumer month par excellence on all levels, including self-consumption.

What is very interesting is that Ramadan has now become synonymous with certain words: television advertisements, soap operas, fawazir (Ramadan "riddles"; this year conspicuously absent from the television programme for the first time in almost 30 years -- there's satellite for you) suhour tents, shisha (waterpipe) and, lately, religious chanter El-Sheikh Yassin El-Tuhami and experimental theatre company Al-Warsha Troupe. For a growing number of people, Ramadan has also become identified with the nightly cultural events held at the recently refurbished Beit Al-Harrawi and Beit Zeinab Khatoun, both growing epicentres of popular cultural activity. Their location at the heart of Islamic Cairo, combined with the immense diversity of people attending the shows, produce the pleasurable feeling of melting in the crowd, of being united in the daytime by the act of fasting and in the evening by the act of losing oneself in a performance.

Held in the courtyard in the open air at 8.00pm, the shows this year at Al-Harrawi/Khatoun begin on 7 Ramadan (3 December) and end on 27 Ramadan (23 December). The first night will host Egypt's most celebrated colloquial Arabic poet Abdel-Rahman El-Abnoudi for what promises to be quite an evening, as the free entrance allows just about anyone who manages to squeeze in (for seats one usually has to arrive at least half an hour before the show) to enjoy events that are otherwise seldom available. Friday, 8 December is the only opportunity to catch the Asatizat Al-Tarab Troupe, who will perform classic selections from the Arabic music repertoire -- a fine contrast with the following night's new wave Arabic music presented by Hossam Shaker and his Rahhala Troupe. On 10 and 14 December, and in cooperation with Pro Helvetia and the Swiss Embassy in Cairo, Stephan Ananas will perform with the Modern Arabic Jazz Band. However suspicious one may feel of such recent musical creations, if it's showing at Al-Harrawi/Khatoun, it's usually well worth the time and effort. Al-Warsha Troupe, which has been offering us the Beni Hilal-inspired play Spinning Lives for the past few years at Al-Harrawi, among other venues, will be performing on Monday, 11 December only -- though it remains to be seen what their programme will include. As for Sharqiat, Fathi Salama's east-meets-west musical band, it will perform the following night -- that is usually one of the highlights of the Ramadan programme and not to be missed.

Sheikh El-Helbawi will present religious chants on 13 December, warming the crowds up for the big event at the end of the month. It may be a nice touch to schedule the family's Al-Hussein suhour on Saturday, 16 December when they can catch the Upper Egypt Children's Choir, or on 18 December, since the acclaimed Banat Al-Nil will be performing. For fans of Arabic music, there will be several song recitals given by various singers, including Maha El-Badri (4 December), Sherbini (15 December) and Hala El-Sabbagh (19 December), as well as an Arabic music takht (small instrumental ensemble) accompanying Zeinab Boulos (21 December).

Among the highlights of the programme is the concert of Armenian composer George Kazazian (22 December). Kazazian's album Sabil was extremely popular upon its release a decade ago, consequently inspiring numerous performers to adopt similar "oriental jazz" tones in their music -- most of which failed to get it quite right, however. The mother of all concerts, however, is reserved for 23 December, the last performance of the holy month. Crowds will gather by the hundreds, fans will break a leg to enter the courtyard, listeners will be there as early as 6.00pm (and so should you if you wish to find a seat), although it may not be before 9.30pm that Sheikh Yassin El-Tuhami finally makes his appearance. Nicknamed Bulbul Al-Se'id (the Nightingale of Upper Egypt) Sheikh Yassin has become a true phenomenon of religious chanting, giving concerts and releasing CDs all over Europe and as far as Brazil. Wherever he goes, immense crowds trail behind him, travelling from the other end of the country to hear him sing and perform the dhikr. Men and women weep, some even verging on momentary hysteria, others spend two whole hours carrying their tape recorders as high up as they can just to bring back a bad recording to last them until the next concert. Sheikh Yassin is indeed amazing, and he will perform at Al-Harrawi at the close of Ramadan. You can sit home to indulge in gluttony and sloth, or you can make the trip and be part of a truly soul-lifting experience. The call is yours.

© Copyright Al-Ahram Weekly. All rights reserved

weeklyweb@ahram.org.eg