10 - 16 May 2001
Issue No.533
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Al-Ahram Weekly On-line 10 - 16 May 2001 Issue No.533 |
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Colour me beautiful
Sunshine, clear, azure waters, colourful reefs, fish, a turtle and a history lesson to boot. Al-Ahram Weekly heads out to the Straits of Tiran
"Can you imagine that the 1967 defeat began on that bit of rock," my friend told all who would listen, pointing across the water to the innocent-looking Straits of Tiran. It was the first of many pieces of information we were given in detailed installments. We were told what a pathetic war it had been, how Nasser had placed a couple of guns overlooking the straits, closing it to Israel-bound shipping, and how the Israelis had called his bluff, of the subsequent defeat that traumatised a generation of Egyptians.
Idle pleasures: Cruising past Tiran
But seriously, we were on vacation, and today Tiran is the destination of our one-day boat excursion which cost about LE100 for each of us. The other popular option for a similar trip is Ras Mohamed, but having already been there, and after all the history bites, we could not resist Tiran.
At the Ghazala Tourist booth on the boardwalk we booked on the next boat out. Early next morning, we aimed groggily for the beach-front meeting place and were promptly sped out to our clean, white, two-tiered boat. Settling ourselves on the top deck, we were soon joined by a group of ten other tourists and by 10am we were heading out to sea. Tea, coffee and water were available on the lower deck, the sun was wonderful and the only drawback was that the child and Sushi seemed to get a bit queasy with the movement of the boat. Nonetheless it seemed like the perfect start to the day, and we soon reached our first diving spot, Ras Nasrani.
This was another opportunity to reminisce, and my friend was not about to let it pass. "What a shame. I remember this beach from the early eighties. The only way to access it was via jeep," the friend lamented. Today, tractors were busy putting together some white bungalows on what was once a deserted beach. Underwater, empty cartons which once held bathroom tile lay strewn amidst the coral, and on the sea floor someone had assembled some metal furniture into an impromptu living room. Needless to say the fish were none too happy and the coral was not the most spectacular. Back on board, my friend shook a sad head that said it all.
About an hour later, however, we arrived in the Straits of Tiran and were dropped into the water near Jackson Reef. I have never had a better snorkelling experience. It was an easy swim, with great fish and even a green turtle (Chelonia myades, according to the child's pamphlet) and, to the turtle's probable discontent, I spent a good part of my time swimming above him trying to imitate his swimming strokes. It was seriously entertaining stuff.
Back on the boat it was time for a good meal prepared in the galley -- chicken, fish, rice, potatoes and salad, followed by fruit and wafers. The movement of the boat soon had me drifting off to sleep, but my snooze was brought to an end by a sudden call to jump into the water and for the Gordon Reefs. To access these you must jump off the boat as it moves, as there is no place to anchor (boats are forbidden to drop anchor on the reef). The boat moves beside the snorkellers up to the point where they must climb on board while it is still in motion. We were told this was not a swim for beginners, and since I had already had a great time at Jackson's, I passed. An obvious mistake. My friend told me the corals were amazing and I shouldn't have missed them.
Our guide in the water was very personable and competent. He told us not to touch anything, and swam after people to make them tow the line. And although not all the activity was suitable for the child, he soon made friends with a small Chinese boy, and with the aid of the latest in the Harry Potter story the afternoon passed pleasantly enough. For her part, Sushi made the best of her motion sickness by batting doleful brown eyes at everyone who passed her way, and soon had the whole boat cooing and crooning over her.
We were back by 5pm after a fabulous day which was great value for money.
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