16 - 22 August 2001
Issue No.547
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Al-Ahram Weekly Online 16 - 22 August 2001 Issue No.547 |
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The end of the affair
Injy El-Kashef finds sweetness at last
We have already discussed what happened the first time I attempted to acquaint myself with Don Haridi, that new restaurant that recently opened at the Conrad Hotel. This time, having grown much older and wiser in the space of a week, we headed there at 10.00pm for a nice dinner by the pool. Although our dinner took place at the peak of the heat wave, there was an inexplicable breeze blowing all through the restaurant. We later discovered that it was actually no more than huge fans rotating overhead and producing what the Nile had failed to.
I was with a friend and her husband and, by the time the waiter actually understood what it was we wanted, we had almost lost our appetites. The husband had a Grilled Filet of Seabass. I could stop there. There could be nothing else to say. Grilled filet of seabass. But because this is my job, I find myself compelled to describe the slice of fish. Let us begin by saying that, since I had to describe it, I also had to try it and that proved a problem because it implied spearing a bite on a fork and transferring the morsel to my mouth. Now when a filet is so overcooked that it flakes at the slightest touch, it has a problem. Another problem is that it tasted as if it had never experienced anything other than sea water. No seasoning, no marinade, not even salt and pepper, it seemed. It was fresh, yes -- as fresh as a filet can be; but that's all it was.
His wife had the Chilli con Carne. If I may be allowed, after all these months of reviewing, to mention my personal culinary preferences, I will state that I am like a deer. I simply love salty food, and before I taste anything I sprinkle some extra salt on it. But my friend's chilli con carne, goodness gracious, was salt with minced meat. Mercy! I just got a year older last month -- please. My bones are not what they used to be. My friend couldn't touch it. One forkful was all it took and she began to splutter, eventually managing to choke out the popular expression "I have children who need me, I can't do that."
Now for me, saving the best for last (and I'm not talking about the food). I had a Smoked Turkey Fajita plate, which was not bad at all, surprisingly. However, the last time I checked, this kind of dish was usually accompanied by sour cream, not whipped cream; also some guacamole is standard fare. The pico de gallo, on the other hand, was fantabulous and earned all my respect.
For dessert we had delicious crème caramel and some equally appetising profiteroles. Pity about the main courses.
Before I leave you, allow me to note that Don Haridi is an attempt at offering two separate national cuisines in a single convenient venue. Therefore, among all the Mexican creations, you will find some authentic, purely Egyptian dishes. Don't be afraid. Only the good die young (even when they pay LE160).
Don Haridi, Conrad Hotel, Maspero, Nile Corniche
Tel: 580 8000
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