AMID THE DESOLATION of Bethlehem an inflatable Santa Claus stands in the deserted street outside a souvenir shop (main photo). Inset: Christians march at Manger Square outside the Church of the Nativity in Bethlehem prior to Christmas Eve mass. With Israeli troops in the shadows, the birthplace of Jesus marked a gloomy Christmas, with no light-filled tree in Manger Square, no bells or music, and few pilgrims. This year is the first since 1994 that Bethlehem is under Israeli occupation during the holiday. Protesting the occupation, town leaders cancelled all Christmas festivities except religious observances. (photos: AP, AFP)