Traveller's notes
IN SPITE of an abundance of good travel guidebooks and the distributed omniscience of the Internet, I would advise having an Egyptian travel agency make all arrangements for you. They have up-to-date information and contacts that enable them to get the best prices. They will ensure that things go as planned.
Mahmoud took care of all the bureaucratic details, like filing our itinerary and copies of our passports with the proper authorities. Security measures in Egypt are much tighter now for foreigners; we were required to take a guard for the drive from Cairo to Ras Sudr. Local guides and professional drivers who knew the routes over invisible desert tracks not indicated on maps were essential for a safe and interesting trip. Many agencies offer tours ranging from jeep safaris to camel trekking with a wide range of accommodation to choose from. We chose to stay in comfortable hotels with half board (breakfast and dinner) and improvise lunches.
Ehab had no trouble finding stores in the towns where we stayed to buy water and snacks. In fact, these items also turned out to be available in some surprisingly remote locations, but I urge people not to rely on finding them everywhere they go. We were careful to pack along a litre or more of water per person, as it is very easy to become dehydrated. I took small plastic bags containing the right amount of powdered sports-beverage mix to add to a litre of bottled water. This was very helpful on the longer walks. I also found that sucking on a hard candy helped control thirst and unseemly panting.
Many travel guidebooks for Egypt include a section on the Sinai. After searching the bookstores of Cairo without success, we found an excellent topographic map of South Sinai on sale in a shop outside St Catherine's Monastery. Published by Isiss Egypt, 52 Al-Zaher Street, Cairo, it provides a wide range of tourist information and lists hotels, restaurants, historic and cultural attractions, as well as scuba diving sites. It provides guidance on the degree of difficulty of various hikes, many of which should only be attempted by experienced climbers with professional guides and equipment. No one should venture on any of the suggested off-road adventures without adequate preparation. With respect to clothing: sunscreen, a hat, long-sleeved shirts and trousers, as well as sturdy walking shoes are essential in the Sinai -- as they are in the rest of Egypt for careful travellers.
With professionals handling so many of the details, it would be easy for the tourist to get lazy. But he should use this opportunity to read and study everything he can before the trip. I spent several months exercising to improve my strength and stamina. Of course, I also kept reading as much as I could about the experiences of other travellers and reports from professional geologists. I am convinced that the more I prepare my mind and body, the more I gain from a trip. A trip such as this is not just a vacation but also a chance to learn and experience many new things.
