Traveller's notes

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After beating Simba, Ismaili found themselves the only Egyptian squad left in African club football championships

The earliest travellers started to sail up the Nile some 150 years ago -- taking in the scenic plains beyond the banks of the Nile, and visiting the temples and tombs located along the stretch of the river. Nile travel, in fact, was the only way to access them at that time. It was Thomas Cook who brought the masses to the Nile after putting the first steam boats into operation on the Nile in the middle of the 19th century. He was also the first to set up an agency (Thomas Cook travel), to ensure that everything was ready for tourists when they arrived on board. Now there are over 250 cruise boats on the Nile offering a wide choice of accommodation, but invariably similar itineraries. The differences reflected in cost stem mainly in the standard of service, accommodation, and the number and size of cabins.

- First time visitors to Egypt who want a classical tour would do their trip much justice by booking a Nile cruise. One of its added advantages -- beyond the sites and scenes -- is that they will unpack just once while touring Upper Egypt, given that their hotel will travel with them. Cruises somewhat ease the pace of site-seeing, interspersing mornings of temple hustle and bustle with hours of pleasant Nile floating. The Nile cruise experience also gives travellers the opportunity to absorb the life of rural Egypt -- as observed on the banks of the Nile.

- Cruise boats have developed significantly in the past few years as far as size, shape and facilities are concerned. A decade ago, the cabins were smaller, their amenities less, decorations simpler, and facilities on board were much more limited. Today, the cruise boats have become bigger and more luxurious, with high panoramic ceilings, marble floors, elevators, exquisite decoration and paintings, and the finest of fabrics used to upholster chairs and cushions. Cabins in the newer boats have mini-bars, video circuit or satellite TV's, bathtubs and hair dryers. Some boats now even have suites available. Facilities too have entered another class, with fitness centres on board, spas, billiard tables, nightclubs, boutiques, and even small libraries. Resident doctors have also become the norm.

- A traveller who wants to book a Nile cruise may be mind- boggled by the selection. They all look nice, provide the same service, same itineraries and even similar entertainment programmes. It is hence advisable that you opt for a boat recommended by friends or relatives. It is also preferable to book a cruise that belongs to a reputable hotel chain or a travel agency.

- It is recommended that you inquire not only about the boat (facilities etc), but also about the size and type of room you will be staying in, as well as its onboard location. It is best to avoid rooms near the engine, on the lower deck, or those over or beside a noisy bar. Usually such rooms or areas are reserved for crewmembers, but not always.

- Nile cruises today operate between Luxor and Aswan. The long cruise that used to operate between Cairo and Aswan is no longer in operation.

- Typical Nile cruises are three, four, six or seven nights. A three-night cruise may start in either Luxor or Aswan. The first day of an Aswan start typically includes a visit to the High Dam (built from 1960 to 1970), the unfinished obelisk in the granite quarries, and the Temple of Isis on the Philae Island -- relocated to the Egilica Island in 1980 as a part of the salvation campaign of Nubian monuments.

In the afternoon, travellers can enjoy a felucca ride for a visit to the Botanical Garden, or alternatively, a camel ride to the St Simeon Monastery overlooking the Agha Khan Mausoleum on the west bank is an option.

On the second day, the boat sails to Kom Ombo, where travellers visit the small temple of Kom Ombo -- the only one dedicated to two ancient Egyptian gods: Horus and Sobek (200 BC: 200 AD). In the afternoon the boat sails to Edfu, passing by Al- Selselah sandstone quarries of the Ancient Egyptians, and reaching the city of Edfu where it anchors for the night.

On the morning of the third day, travellers visit Edfu temple. Dedicated to the God Horus (second century BC), it is considered the best preserved temple in Egypt. The boat then heads to Esna, reaching its destined dock by the early afternoon. As the boat waits to pass through the Esna lock, travellers can visit the remaining part of Esna Temple, located below street level in the centre of the modern city of Esna. Esna Temple is dedicated to the god Khnum from the Graeco-Roman period. In the afternoon, the ship sails from Esna to Luxor -- travellers enjoying sunset on the Nile before their nighttime arrival in Luxor. From there, tourists catch flights to Cairo, or "home".

- The four-night programme includes an overnight stay in Luxor, and a morning of sightseeing taking in the Theban necropolis on the west bank of the Nile where the Valley of Kings, Queens, Tombs of Nobles and Temple of Hatshepsut exist. In the afternoon, there is a visit to the sites of the east bank, including the temples of Karnak and Luxor (1500 BC).

- With the six-night programme the boat departs from Luxor and sails further north to Dendera -- where it docks for the night. In the morning travellers are taken by bus to visit the Temple of Hathor in Dendara's Qena (built between 125 BC and 60 AD), and on to Abydos in Sohag.

- With the seven-night programme, travellers start their trip from Luxor, and ultimately cruise back there.

- For cruises that start in Luxor and end in Aswan, a traveller can extend his/her Upper Egypt programme -- visiting Abu Simbel Temples further south. The temples are three-hour bus drives away, or 30 minutes by air. Travellers frequently extend travel by day or two to spend a day in Abu Simbel City.

- Nile cruise trips do not need special packing. Given the heat, cotton clothes are preferable; synthetics are not advisable. Sightseeing tours in Upper Egypt would necessitate bringing a hat, and sunblock creams and moisturising lipsticks are also important. In addition, make sure you bring comfortable walking shoes. A torch for the tombs is an added plus to pack.

- When sightseeing, make sure you drink plenty of water. Bottled water is available everywhere.

- While on board shorts, tank tops, and bathing suits can be worn freely, while sightseeing skimpy dress should be avoided.

- Avoid tap water, and unpealed fruits or vegetables.

- The optimum time to go on a cruise is between October to April. At that time the weather is cooler during the day with a touch of chill on deck at night. To economise, however, book your trip during the hotter summer months -- cruises at that time (if you can stand the heat) are reduced by as much as 50 per cent.

- If you decide to book your cruise during December or June, confirm with your travel agency that your trip does not coincide with the annual maintenance operations of the Esna Lock. On specific days during these two months, the lock is shut down and no boats are allowed to pass. This means, at times, that boats coming from Aswan will stop at Esna and travellers complete the trip to Luxor by bus (a few companies do, however, transfer passengers to a sister boat on the other side of the lock). Those coming from Luxor, in such cases, will take a bus from Luxor to Esna where the boat waits for them.

Useful links:

http://www.roadtoegypt.com/nile_cruisers.htm

http://touregypt.net