Limelight:
Bare knee-cessities
By
Lubna Abdel-Aziz
While some are airing their Halloween costumes to chase away goblins and ghouls, and others are browsing over Spring/Summer 2004 trends, we are still wondering what to wear if and when winter ever comes. This lingering 2003 summer has left us lagging behind. In case winter does visit our shores, here is what the fashion gurus offer us this season.
"The women come to see the show; they came to make a show themselves", written by Roman poet Ovid (43BC- AD17) still holds true today, Gradually fashion shows have taken the "fashion" out of the "shows" leaving us with less and less "fashion" and more and more "show". Editors, clients, buyers, and the beautiful people of the world push and shove to the "theatre of fashion" to be dazzled and frazzled over the splendour of the pageant rather than the artistry of the creation.
The season's offerings may prove true the well-known adage that "when the economy goes down the fashions go up," leaving us drowning in a sea of bare knees. Mini skirts, which made a comeback in summer, appeared to be the backbone of this winter's fashion statement. If, like Yves St Laurent, you too "don't like knees", cover them up with multicoloured opaque tights or long and slinky over-the-knee boots. Be prepared to see a multitude of very minimal minis with a new preppy look in pleated Scottish plaids with a funky flare and a flouncing girlish cut, in the coolest hippest 21st century style.
"Fashion at its best is usually more of a gentler progression of revisited ideas," and so it is again this year. Many American designers have concentrated on the 1980s. Europeans start the retro look with the 1940s. The strongest nostalgic look is the 1950s suit. Elegant, stylish and fitted, mother's suit will look new and glamorous again this season. Search for those long-forgotten gloves at the bottom of your drawer for a polished elegance, another 1960's revival. They make a strong comeback this year in various colours and lengths -- elbow length is best. For suit, dress or coat, gloves in a contrasting colour provide the right finishing touch. Speaking of coats, if you must make one fashion investment this fall, let it be one superb tweedy, fuzzy coat, or two, or three. Coats are no longer cumbersome, to be immediately removed indoors. Cool and commanding, they substitute for dresses and suits, with fur, feather, or metal trims, falling down to your ankles, calves or knees, over skirts, minis or pants, over lacy, fishnet or patterned hose, high heel or over-the-knee boots, the coat is the look this winter.
While it seemed outré yesterday, and will seem old- fashioned tomorrow, today's fashion is smart for today. More than essential are the skinniest pants you have ever seen parading on the runway this season, hugging the hips, calves, ankles and even boots. The skinny skinny pants are a must-have number. The multi-pocketed cargo pants, so popular this summer have been replaced by metal zipped- in pockets rather than buttoned-out ones, with added D- chains, metal zippers, and extra belts and snaps. If the skinny pants are not your choice, the 1980s famous leggings will do. Remember the big off-the-shoulder Flashdance sweater? It has been refreshed and revamped, worn again, over skin-hugging leggings for a nostalgic look at the fabulous 1980s. If you dare, include one or more of these items in the fall/winter wardrobe and you will be trés mod, trés chic. Moreover, from the fashion capitals of the world, here is a bird's eye view of what some of the famous couture houses have whipped up. .
King Karl (Lagerfeld) at Maison Chanel combined teeny-weeny A-line skirts with the classic Chanel suit in "fingertip length with a whole lot of leg action", along with all the usual playful elegance that underscores Coco's legacy.
Fashion looks back as well as forward. At YSL Rive- Gauche now designed by Tom Ford, pays homage to the retros of the 1940s, which St Laurent himself designed in the 1970s. Sophisticated, sexy and exuberant, his colour palette is an array of typical St Laurent colour clashes -- his famous cranberry and red, brown and pale blue, black and powder pink. All that is old is new again.
Tom Ford's own Gucci collection had enough beauty to defy our "anxious times". Wishing our world were a bed of roses, rose petals came pouring down on the runway covering his models, making a carpet of roses for them to glide upon. It was "like a dream", said the models. Voluminous sleeves, high collars, panelled ruched or accentuated with fur, and the skirts always swinging, clinging to every curve, a vision of glamour for any age. If you see yourself as: "a power vixen extravagantly armoured to face down a troubled world", you are a typical Gucci girl, and this is how Tom Ford sees today's women.
There is no other name quite like Dior. With the creativity of John Galliano, now at the helm, this season's collection is a stunning kaleidoscope of East/West visions. Recreating an 18th century style "of fetish queens in kabuki faces" over lovely bare legs. Judging from last season's $36 million net profit for Maison Dior, Galliano and Dior make a happy couple.
Fashion may have many kings, but only one Armani. The ultimate tailor, Giorgio is every lady's favourite designer not to mention every man's. His fall collection followed through with the short length mini adding his usual top-to-toe lady-like sensibilities. He switched his focus from his distinctive classic trademark pants to flared skirts that add a softer, younger feel, stopping five inches above the knee. This collection was dedicated to his beloved black and white colour combination, which only Armani can transform into an enchanting rainbow of colours.
Donna Karan, icon of the sidewalk society of New York presents one of our favourite looks, the schoolgirl uniform in a neat jacket over a crisp white shirt and a fluted grey flannel skirt, short enough to shock even hardy New Yorkers.
With men's fashion, a multi-billion dollar business, that continues to expand there is no denying that fashion fascinates men as much as women. "For apparel oft proclaims the man" , and has for centuries. If our male readers have indulged us up to this point despite the omission of male fashion trends, we are deeply grateful and promise a full review of spring male offerings in a future issue.
If winter winds finally visit our shores, and if your mood and budget allow, add a coat to your wardrobe trimmed with satin, velvet or fur, or if you prefer a lady like 1950s style suit. Add fringe to cuffs and hemlines, to pockets and collars, to shoulder and waist. A pair of leggings or skinny skinny pants and any boot will do, but over the knee is more hip. If you have good knees, add a flirty girly mini skirt, otherwise leave that look to the 20 and under crowd. Keep your hair tousled "like a doll that woke up and forgot to comb her hair." Keep your eyes smoky and smouldering, in midnight blacks or twilight greys. Chokers and ropes of pearls and chains and baubles and 'bangles and bright shiny beads' will give a lift and a zing to your evening attire.
A last word of advice, if you are a devoted fashionista, exercise those knees. Leggings and pants may cover them in winter, but spring promises more and more bare knees in more and more minis and shorts. So, be warned and be prepared: "for if winter comes, can spring be far behind!"
As much as some of us wish to resist fashion fads and trends, avoiding frippery at every turn, there is an inner longing to look like the rest of the world. Eventually everyone falls prey to fashion.
Fashion, though Folly's child, and guide of fools,
Rules e'en the wisest, and in learning rules.
George Crabbe (1754 --1832)
