Weekend retreats: A spiritual break
Away from the hustle and bustle of daily life and worldly worries, Rasha Sadek leaves behind the material world and takes a spiritual break in Wadi Natrun
Why go now?
Wadi Natrun, which lies in the Western Desert, 100 kilometres northwest of Cairo, is the ideal Christmas destination. While fleeing from the soldiers of Herod the King of Israel, Jesus, his mother, the Virgin Mary, and Joseph rested in Wadi Natrun before proceeding southwards towards Cairo.
The four monasteries of Anba Bishoi (the Monastery of St Bishoi), Abu Maqar (the Monastery of Saint Macarius), Al-Baramus (the Monastery of the Romans) and Al-Surian (Monastery of the Syrians) all date to the fourth century AD and are testimony to the endurance of the ancient Coptic Christian sect. The desert has been the protector of their faith, for it was there that thousands of Christians retreated to escape Roman persecution in the fourth century AD. They lived in caves, built monasteries and developed the monastic tradition that was later adopted by European Christians.
Wadi Natrun is steeped in religious history, but the trip does not have to end at the monasteries. A string of rest houses along the Cairo- Alexandria road offer a wide range of entertainment for adults and children alike. There is a range of restaurants offering sumptuous international and local dishes, which can be enjoyed while listening to one of the live bands. Not forgetting the children, the rest houses have provided playgrounds with swings and see-saws, and mini zoos displaying exotic birds, tigers and lions. There are also shops selling a variety of products from ostrich meat and honey, to leather products and water-sport equipment.
Getting about
Wadi Natrun lies off the Cairo-Alexandria desert road, and the only way to get there is by private car or bus. West Delta buses leave every hour from Almaza station in Heliopolis between 6am and 6pm and a ticket costs LE4.50. You can also take a taxi.
If you have your own vehicle, take the Pyramids road and turn onto the desert highway just before the Mena House hotel. Approximately 95 kilometres from Cairo (just after the Rest House), turn left into the Wadi, go through the village of Bir Hooker, then follow the signs for the monasteries.
If you want to make a tour of the monasteries but don't have a car, you can expect to pay around LE20 for a taxi. On Fridays and Sundays, when the monasteries are crowded with visitors, you shouldn't have a problem picking up a lift.
City fact file
Wadi Natrun is located in the Beheira governorate. The name of the valley is derived from the word "natrun", or sodium carbonate, for which the area is famous. The Wadi Natrun city is surrounded by lakes formed by rainwater collected after desert storms, and the chemical is in the salt deposits of the lakes. During Pharaonic times, sodium carbonate was used in the process of mummification.
The Coptic history of the Wadi goes back to the fourth century AD when some 60 monasteries were scattered throughout the valley.
Attacks by both Berbers and Bedouins destroyed many of the monasteries and only four remain today. Their legacy persists, however, and the religious life they helped preserve is still thriving. Today there is a large community of self-sufficient monks who are involved in land reclamation projects and also carry out research on varieties of cattle and crops.
Apart from enjoying the solitude and serenity of this desert location, the monasteries are also worth visiting for the fine examples of Coptic art on display, particularly in Deir Al-Surian.
Wadi Natrun contains several traditional, rural houses and some small shops.
Must see
The four monasteries date back to the fourth century AD, and, despite being similar in design, each has a unique history.
The Monastery of Saint Bishoi (Deir Al-Anba Bishoi) lies 14 kilometres from the Wadi Natrun entrance. The monastery is inhabited by 160 monks and the complex includes a number of churches, some of which are closed to the public. The monastery, however, is open all year round.
Saint Bishoi, a disciple of Saint Macarius, founded the monastery in the fourth century. Saint Bishoi -- which is the Coptic word for "sublime" -- was born in 320AD in Menoufiya. Jesus proclaimed that the saint's body would not decay after his death, and Saint Bishoi's remains are said to lie in a perfectly preserved state inside the sealed container in which they were interred.
The Well of Martyrs is located to the right of the church. This is where the Berbers supposedly washed the blood off their swords after killing 49 monks in the Monastery of Saint Macarius in 444AD.
Like the other three monasteries, the Monastery of Saint Bishoi is surrounded by an ancient fortress constructed in the fifth century after the Berbers' attacks increased, and hundreds of monks were killed. The fortress is constructed on three levels: the first comprises a well, a mill and store rooms; the church of the Holy Virgin, which was reopened in 1986, lies on the second floor; while the church of the Archangel Michael is on the third level.
The Monastery of Saint Bishoi also houses a building containing solitary cells where the monks can retreat from the outside world, particularly during times of fasting and during religious holidays. There are also rest houses in the monasteries and cells to accommodate travellers.
Pope Shenouda III ran the monastery before being appointed Patriarch of the Orthodox Church of Egypt.
The monastery is open all year round.
The Monastery of the Syrians (Deir Al-Surian) lies 500 metres northwest of the Monastery of Saint Bishoi. Syrian monks have lived in Wadi Natrun since the end of the fourth century.
The church, dedicated to the Holy Virgin, was constructed between the seventh and the ninth centuries and built in the style of a Basilica, in the shape of a cross. The four sides of the cross end in semi-domes, while its centre is a full dome; all are beautifully decorated.
This church consists of three sanctuaries, two choirs and a nave. The middle sanctuary is dedicated to Saint Mary, its walls decorated with moulded and carved stucco depicting fish and grapes, and the alter is of black marble.
In 1991 efforts were made to restore a painting of the Ascension on the walls of the church, which depicts Christ surrounded by his 12 disciples. During restoration, however, another fresco was discovered underneath the painting which is thought date back to the ninth century. In the fresco, the Virgin Mary appears with the Archangel Gabriel and prophets Isaac, Moses, Ezekiel and Daniel.
The Monastery of the Syrians, also named the Monastery of the Holy Virgin, is linked to Saint Bishoi's hermitage by an underground passage. Saint Bishoi retreated to the hermitage to withdraw from the world, and it is said he spent 35 years there. It is also said that he used to tie his hair to a chain at the top of the cave to avoid falling asleep during his nightly vigil.
The Monastery of Saint Macarius (Deir Abu Maqar) is the southern-most of the four monasteries and was probably the first to have been built in the area. It lies outside Wadi Natrun, 92 kilometres from Cairo. Signs on the Cairo-Alexandria desert road clearly indicate the way to the monastery. Today some 100 monks live in the monastery.
It is said that the Christian Saint Macarius, who lived as a hermit monk in a cave for over 40 years, received a divine revelation in the form of a dream to build a church. When the saint died in 390AD, his disciples continued the construction of the monastery.
The monastery closes during religious holidays: 55 days before Christmas, the 43 days before the Orthodox Easter and during the fast for the Assumption of the Virgin from 7 to 22 August.
The Monastery of the Romans (Deir Al- Baramus) is the northern-most of the four monasteries. The modern name of the monastery, Al- Baramus, is Arabic, derived from the Coptic Christian Pa-Ramoes which means "that of the Romans". The Romans referred to are the brothers Saint Maximus and Saint Domitius.
The monastery is significant in that it was founded on a site south of the old Baramus monastery, which some say was incorrectly known as the Monastery of Moses the Black -- so named because he was a dark-skinned Ethiopian.
The monastery closes during the religious holidays but is open Fridays to Sundays until 3.30pm.
Al-Hamra Spring The fishermen's village is built on the banks of a large lake and is surrounded by green fields. The picturesque scene and the serenity of the surroundings make for a relaxing break. The lake is salty, though at one end fresh water gushes into the lake. According to local tradition, this is the exact spot from which the Virgin Mary took a drink to quench her thirst.
Check-in
There are no hotels in Wadi Natrun. However, the three-star Rest House (+2045 551 308) situated on the Cairo-Alexandria road offers single rooms for LE50 and double rooms for LE85. Prices do not include meals.
The two-star Sahary Inn Motel (+2045 355 0880), 111 kilometres from Cairo on the Cairo- Alexandria desert road, offers single rooms for LE86 and doubles for LE117. The motel pool and restaurant are currently closed. However, drinks are served in the cafeteria.
The four monasteries have guest houses to accommodate church groups and students, except during certain religious holidays when the monasteries close to the public. If you want to stay overnight you will need to obtain written permission from the monasteries' Cairo residences: Deir Anba Bishoi (+202 591 4448), Deir Al- Surian (+202 592 9658), Deir Abu Maqar (+202 577 0614) and Deir Al-Baramus (+202 592 2775). Women are not permitted to stay overnight.
Wadi Natrun is only an hour's drive from either Cairo or Alexandria. You might want to stay in any of the hotels in the two cities instead.
Dining out
The Cairo-Alexandria road has restaurants catering to all tastes. The Master rest house, located just outside Wadi Natrun, serves snacks, hot meals and desserts and there is an open-air seating area as well as a children's playground.
The Rest House, opposite the Master, serves oriental and international dishes. It also has a supermarket.
Wahet Omar (Omar's Oasis) which lies 111 kilometres from Cairo, offers wonderful traditional rural meals. Besides serving oriental food, Wahet Omar also offers excellent Italian dishes. An adjacent mini zoo, with a variety of birds and animals, will entertain the children.
The nearby Lion's Village, named after the resident collection of lions and tigers, offers a variety of eateries. There are a number of restaurants surrounding a lake, serving both oriental and international dishes. The village also boasts an outlet for ostrich meat, chicken, honey, cheese and butter.
Into the night
Master's restaurant offers live entertainment. Omar's Oasis hosts a live band on holidays as well as a children's show on Fridays and Saturdays during the summer.
