A stroll by the sea in Montazah (top); Cavafy's apartment, north of Horreya Avenue, now a museum that includes his desk and his death mask (bottom) photo: Hussein Fathy Clockwise from top: Fishing in Alexandria; Shells modelled into rabbits, rotating bird contraptions and necklaces on sale outside Qait Bey; Attarin antique market; The Women's Squeeze photos: Sherif Sonbol, Khaled El-Fiqi and Hussein Fathy