Al-Ahram Weekly Online   22 - 28 January 2004
Issue No. 674
Travel
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Traveller's notes


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Transportation:

EgyptAir ((+202) 635 0260) operates a daily flight from Cairo to Alexandria's international airport at 7.30am and an occasional afternoon flight at 5.30pm. Round-trip tickets are LE586 for non-resident foreigners returning in less than a week and LE771 for those staying longer. On the other hand, Egyptians and foreign residents are charged LE227 for a K Class round-trip ticket and LE287 for a Y Class ticket. Other airlines offering flights to Alexandria are Olympic, Lufthansa, British Airways and Air France.

A more affordable method of travel is by train -- the Spanish and Turbini trains are punctual and take around two and a quarter hours to get from Cairo's Ramses Station to both Sidi Gaber and Misr Station situated in downtown Alexandria. Tickets cost LE35 for first-class passengers and LE25 for second-class passengers, with the same rates for both foreigners and Egyptians. For more information, call the railway information office: ((+202) 575 3555). Another cheap, although less comfortable, option is service taxis leaving from in front of the train station and the Super Jet bus ((+202) 290 9013), which picks up passengers from Almaza Square, Turgoman in Tahrir and Giza with trips on the hour to Al-Raml Station for LE22 per person.

Accommodation:

The city has a wide range of hotels, with options for every budget. At the top of the market is Palestine Hotel ((+203) 547 4033) in Montazah Gardens, run by Helnan, which offers great views of the sea and a secluded but small beach area. Also in Montazah Gardens is the Salamlek ((+203) 547 7999), which is even more ritzy and boasts perhaps the best view in town. Down the road from Montazah towards the centre of the city is Sheraton ( (+203) 548 0550), an unattractive high rise with an excellent view of the sea.

In the city, Metropole ((+203) 486 1465) tops the list of upper-end hotels. Tastefully renovated a few years ago, most rooms are spacious and service is impeccable. Sea-view rooms suffer the noise of the Corniche and tram, so if you value peace and quiet more than a nice view ask for a side room.

The "modernisation" of the renowned Cecil ((+203) 480 7055) unfortunately does not live up to the history of the hotel. Run by Sofitel, the hotel has a shoddy feel to it. Many rooms are uncomfortable and some plain nasty -- I was once put in a room with stained sheets and a filthy, runny bathroom. And service has repeatedly proven itself to be deplorable. Both Metropole and Cecil charge around LE350 for a double room on bed and breakfast basis.

Hotel Delta ((+203) 486 5542) on Azarita Street in front of the Faculty of Dentistry is a quaint, clean establishment characterised by friendly staff, with a double room costing around LE200 on a bed-and- breakfast basis. Delta is a few streets behind the Corniche, but does not have a view of the Mediterranean. Its location is convenient, with the centre of town, Raml, only five minutes on foot, while it is a five-minute walk in the other direction to the new Bibliotheca Alexandrina in Shatby.

For those on a limited budget there is Acropole ((+203) 480 5980), situated on Raml. Bathrooms are shared and speaking from experience I suggest that you might not want to take a shower without your slippers on.

Among the favourites for budget travellers is the Union ((+203) 480 7312), off Raml and directly on the Corniche. Exceptionally clean, the Union offers double rooms for around LE50. Next door is the Crillon, a two-floor pension with a singular collection of stuffed birds in the reception area. While clean, you might want to take your own towels. The rooms with balconies are recommended.

Food options:

In addition to the eateries already mentioned, there are the usual suspects: McDonald's, Pizza Hut and Kentucky Fried Chicken are in the Raml Station area and other locations. Chili's can be found across the main gate of Montazah Gardens. For an up-market meal, San Giovani on the sea in Stanley Bay is a must.

In-city transportation:

Spread out along the Corniche, the city is easily navigated via taxi and mini-bus, or by carriage for the more romantically inclined. Also the tram can be taken between Raml and Victoria, San Stefano, Ras Al- Tin and Sidi Gaber.

If you should need additional assistance head towards the Tourism Office ((+203) 484 338) located in Midan Al-Raml.

Useful links:

If you are interested in learning more about Alexandria you can browse these sites:

www.alexandriatour.com

www.touregypt.net/alex1.htm

www.underwaterdiscovery.org/ english/projects/alexandria

www.bibalex.gov.eg

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