Restaurant review:
Room with a view
Club-sandwiched between the street, the flyover and the sky, you can find a strategic place to watch the world go by
To the insomniac, the silver sprawl of the yet-unopened Insomnia Snack Bar offered much promise; an alternative place to reflect upon the continuum of light and dark and the breaking down of the 24-hour day. The glass façade remained plastered for months, occasional signs of life reflected only in the polishing of the shielded exterior.
When Insomnia did at last open its doors a few weeks ago, the outcome was as mixed as the expectations. Firstly, the image of the writer inspired and infused with caffeine at her favoured café, writing furiously into the wee hours of the morning, spewing out the pages of what could become a work of Pulitzer prowess, was shattered. At present, Insomnia's working hours are 8am to 1am -- although 24-hour service is part of the long-term equation.
Nonetheless, Insomnia is a little place with a lot of potential. The creation of four twenty-something year-old men -- Tamer, Mike, Ahmed and Sherif -- the tiny two-floor snack bar offers a new type of escape. It is hip, it is casual, but unlike most other trendy snack bar hangouts, it is cozy -- simple and modern, but not consumed by the allure of minimalism taken to its bare extreme
The interior could be equated with the spatial dimensions of most things New York. Insomnia is tiny. Downstairs consists of a hallway lined with a coffee bar and salad and sandwich fridge, catering to take-away clientele. Upstairs offers little more room for manoeuvre -- three high tables for two, a long low table with sofa for seven or eight, and the highlight of the room, the table with a view. Lining the shop façade, a bar-like counter faces the street, and a glass panel offering a birds-eye view of the chaotic 26th of July Street. From behind a line of paper flowers, the warmth of the interior, and the shield of what must be triple-glazing, the hustle and bustle of life down below offers much to reflect on.
As one of our little party said, the snack bar offers much promise, but is still ironing out the kinks. Of our order of five dishes, two were not available. We opted for others and were brought instantaneously an appetiser of warm apple crepe with a caramel topping to stimulate our palettes.
"We're extremely sorry about that," offered a profusely apologetic Tamer El- Leithi about the absent dishes. "Please accept this on the house."
We did, and devoured it in seconds.
The first two "Tzecino" salads came fast: platters of smoked turkey breast, ruccola, lettuce, spinach, red pepper, cheddar cheese cubes and peanuts.
"When I think of salad I think of something light and fresh," one of my entourage offered. "This is good, but it's not a good light option. The dressing is too creamy, heavy. Perhaps they should offer mixed seasoning options."
I seconded the vote when my "O'ocean" arrived -- a sizeable combination of lettuce, dill, parsley, and anchovies, dressed with a layer of smoked salmon on the top. Definitely tasty, and sizeable enough to fill, my one qualm was the fact that it was drenched (by my standards) in a mayonnaise-based dressing. Again, not quite what I had envisioned when I scanned the menu for a diet option.
Our "freaky shrimps" were served somewhere between the arrival of the Tzecino's and my O'ocean. Definitely an interesting option, definitely tasty, and definitely laden with fat. The ginger marinated shrimps are rolled in kunafa (shredded wheat pastry), fried and served on a bed of house salad with three types of dressings (blue cheese, honey mustard, and again something mayonnaise-based).
At a nearby table a young woman "mmm-ed" at "The Plate"; a platter of fried chicken sticks, spring rolls, and fried stuffed chicken wings.
"The chicken wings are a bit too fatty, but everything else is very nice, and the dip is yum," she said. "The hot chocolate," she offered, getting the hang of things, "is perfect."
A gentleman in the back offered his take on the sandwiches, commending the freshness and consistency of the bread.
Options are wide -- if available. Subs are offered on plain, brown, spinach and olive bread, or panini. Stuffings include marinated beef with herbed vegetables and cheese; lime-marinated tuna with coloured peppers and greens; and smoked veal with pickled onions, cheddar cheese and greens. Pasta salad and tandoory chicken sticks are also available.
The drinks and dessert menu are both equally well-varied. The drinks include the usual café medley Cairenes have become accustomed to (latte's, frappe's, flavoured teas, coffee cocktails). The deserts, however, offer a bit more creativity. Cheesecake with walnut base, yoghurt tart, mocha-walnut tart, numerous crepes, crème brulee, and more.
The crème brulee was scrumptious, and given the success of our complimentary crepes, it is safe to say the crepe selection will offer similar satisfaction.
Insomnia is destined to move along one of two paths -- either as a noisy hangout crammed with all the owners friends, or a quiet place to go alone, with a good book, and idle away the hours. In either outcome, the addition of light options is a must.
Our bill (including two coffees, fresh orange juice and Perrier): LE112
Insomnia snack bar, 110, 26th July Street, Zamalek. (opposite Diwan bookstore). Tel:735-4242
By Yasmine El-Rashidi
