Splashing out
A number of five-star hotels dot the unique coastline around Taba, offering a choice of luxurious locations for a decadent holiday, the ultimate escape, writes Annika Hampson
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From top: Pharaohs Island, home to Salaheddin fortress, is one of the major landmarks of Taba; a couple on a diving safari; a guest sips cocktails by the beach in Taba Heights
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Lying on the shores of the Red Sea, shadowed by the rugged, cinnamon-coloured mountains of the Sinai desert, Taba is probably more famous for the defunct Israeli- Palestinian negotiations in January 2001 four months into the Intifada, than as a holiday destination. Situated on the border with Israel at the northeast corner of the Sinai Peninsula, Taba is little more than a border crossing with a dusty, windswept bus station, an Egyptian checkpoint, a cluster of little grocery shops and a rather uninspired museum. A series of five-star resorts, however, are heavenly oases.
Israel occupied the Sinai Peninsula during the 1967 war, and Taba was the last town to be handed back to Egypt following the signing of the Egyptian-Israeli Peace Treaty in 1979, so Egyptian development along the coastline is relatively new. Today, development along the Riviera, from Taba, through Nuweiba, and Dahab to Sharm El-Sheikh, is booming.
A decade ago, Taba had but three properties: the Taba Hilton and the Salaheddin and Nelson villages. Only the Hilton was a five-star property. Four years ago, a gigantic tourist resort was established at Taba Heights, at the northern end of the Riviera 25 kilometres down the coast from the border. Owned by Orascom Hotels Holding, the resort comprises a number of deluxe properties and is marketing itself, like El-Gouna in north Hurghada, as a real tourist community with comprehensive facilities and services. It spreads over 4.5 million square metres of colourful, mountainous coastline and boasts five kilometres of beautiful, secluded beaches.
Where to stay in Taba:
Hugging the idyllic coastline, Taba's hotels overlook some of the most beautiful scenery of the Sinai Peninsula, with crystal clear views across the Gulf of Aqaba to Jordan and Saudi Arabia. Taba Heights currently boasts three beachfront five-star hotels, offering a myriad of facilities catering to one's every desire. Taba Hilton, north of Taba Heights, lies on the Israeli-Egyptian border, while further south is the Radisson SAS Resort.
The perfect base for exploring the Sinai, staying in one of Taba's five-star hotels is also a holiday in itself. Your options include: being pampered in the spa; exploring coral reefs teeming with tropical fish; walking barefoot in the sand under the stars; drinking cocktails by the pool; feasting in the exotic range of restaurants; or perfecting your serve on the tennis court. Regardless, you should turn off your mobile phone and soak up the sun, doze off to the sound of the waves lapping on the beach, and catch up on your light reading.
Here is a list of possible accommodation in Taba:
Hyatt Regency Taba Heights
Tel: (+2069) 580 234, Fax: (+2069) 580 235
E-mail: tabah-reservations@hyattintl.com
Marriott Red Sea Resort Taba Heights
Tel: (+2069) 580 100, Fax: (+2069) 580 109
E-mail: mhrs.tcpeg.reservation.mgr@marriotthotels.com
Sofitel Taba Heights
Tel: (+2069) 580 800, Fax: (+2069) 580 808
E-mail: H3011@accor-hotels.com
Radisson SAS Resort Taba
Tel: (+2069) 550 000, Fax: (+2069) 550 111
E-mail: taba.res@radissonsas.com
Taba Hilton
Tel: (+2069) 530 140, Fax: (+2069) 530 140
E-mail: tbahitw@intouch.com
All the hotels offer every amenity you would expect from a five-star hotel -- outdoor swimming pools; fitness centres and spas; a variety of restaurants serving international delicacies, fresh seafood or traditional Middle Eastern cuisine; tennis courts and conference centres. The Sofitel hotel has a children's playground, there is a casino at the Hyatt Regency, the Marriott has an open-air amphitheatre and an 18- hole golf course is under construction at the Hyatt Regency. The hotels also have a full entertainment programme including activities such as water aerobics, water polo, beach volleyball, belly dancing classes, children's shows, face painting, karaoke nights and traditional Bedouin entertainment under the stars.
Excursions:
The Sinai Peninsula, an area of outstanding natural beauty, is seeped in history and has long attracted pilgrims and travellers from all over the world: Ancient expeditions crossed the desert, laden with copper and turquoise, while the old dhow trade routes skirted the coast bringing back silks and spices from the East Indies. Visitors can discover the mystery and beauty of Sinai: climb Mount Sinai, watch the sun rise over the horizon as it paints the jagged mountain landscape in shades of gold and red; visit St Catherine's monastery; hike in the coloured canyon; relax under the palm trees of a desert oasis, or explore the world famous coral reefs. All the hotels offer organised tours to the following destinations:
St Catherine's Monastery is perched on top of Mount Sinai, in the heart of the Sinai peninsula, in the foothills of Gabal Moussa (Moses Mountain) on whose summit the prophet received the Tables of the Law outlining the Ten Commandments. St Catherine's Monastery dates back to the time of Emperor Justinian in the sixth century AD, although it wasn't until the beginning of the 11th century that the monastery was named after St Catherine, a young Christian from Alexandria who died as a martyr in the fourth century AD. Today ten monks, of the Eastern Orthodox Liturgy, still live in the monastery. Only a limited part of the monastery is open to the public, however, including the basilica, Moses's well, the garden and the ossuary. The library, second only to that of the Vatican in worldwide importance, is unfortunately not open to the public. The monastery is open from 9am to 12am daily except Fridays and Sundays.
For a true desert experience, head out to the coloured canyon, or the nearby white canyon. Situated near the small oasis of Ain Furtaga, nature has painted a rainbow of reds, ochre and yellow through the rocks at the coloured canyon, while the white canyon boasts glistening, sand-carved features.
Pharaoh's Island lies 15 kilometres along the coast from Taba Heights and is easily accessible by boat. The island boasts the spectacular Salaheddin fortress. Built during the Byzantine period, the fortress was occupied by the Crusaders in 1116 and enlarged by Sultan Salaheddin after he seized it in 1182. The fortress has since been restored by the Egyptian Antiquity Organisation and opened to the public in 1986.
Known as "the pearl of the Aqaba Gulf", Nuweiba is still inhabited by the Bedouin of the Muzeina and Tarabin tribes, and the local bazaars overflow with Bedouin products, such as handmade silver and bead jewellery, and brightly coloured woven throws and wall-hangings. Nuweiba is 50 kilometres from Taba, and day trips cost $15 per person. Further down the coast lies the village of Dahab, the Arabic word for gold.
Declared a protected area in 1983, Ras Mohamed National Park is flanked by the Gulf of Aqaba to the east and the Gulf of Suez to the west. Divers can explore the most beautiful coral reefs in the world, home to 150 different species of coral and thousands of kinds of tropical fish. Clearly marked paths cross the park, also making it a perfect place to walk and try and spot the elusive desert foxes or ospreys. The adjacent Ras Abu Galum is part of the Egyptian Ministry of Environment's programme to safeguard areas of wild, natural beauty.
For those wishing to explore off the beaten track, Sinai has many hidden treasures. Situated on the Byzantine route used by pilgrims travelling to St Catherine's monastery, Wadi Feiran and to Eilat on the ancient Aliyah, Ain Khudra is one of the most beautiful oases in Sinai. Nearby is the Nawamis archaeological site. Nawamis are small, circular, stone buildings used as burial grounds between the Heliolithic and Bronze Ages.
Up Wadi Mukkatab (Valley of Inscriptions), named after the Byzantine and Nabatean graffiti carved on its wall, is the Serabit Al-Khadem temple. The temple was built in the XII Dynasty (1955-1750 BC) when the mountain was mined for copper and turquoise. The temple is reached by a steep path weaving up the mountain. Special tours or rental cars can be arranged through the hotels.
Tours to Petra, Jordan, the famous ancient city carved into the sandstone, Jordan's port town of Aqaba or Jerusalem can also be arranged.
Water sports:
The Red Sea is internationally acclaimed for its diving and the Taba area boasts over 30 world-class diving spots. Taba Heights' Red Sea Water World marina, which advertises itself as "the most comprehensive water sports centre in the world" offers both entry level and advanced diving courses, ranging from a one dive introduction course to a five-day open water advanced course. Prices range from $45 to $325. The marina also offers a range of water sports, from parasailing ($35 single) to windsurfing ($15 per hour), sailing ($25 per hour) to water skiing or wakeboarding ($20 for 20 minutes). Daily snorkelling trips to the legendary pirate ship, Henry De Monfreid, cost $60 and include all the equipment and lunch. A trip on a glass bottom boat costs $15 for an adult or $10 for a child, while a ride on a banana boat costs $6. Further information can be found on
http://www.redseawaterworld.com
www.redseawaterworld.com
or by e-mailing
info@redseawaterworld.com
When to go:
Taba does get hot in the summer, although it is mercifully free of stifling humidity. The refreshing sea breeze ensures that the heat is never unbearable and Taba averages 4C less than Sharm El-Sheikh in the summer. Spring and autumn are the best months to go when temperatures are in the mid- 20Cs and do not exceed 34C. In January temperatures can fall to 8C at night, while in August the mid-day heat can top 40C. The seawater temperature ranges from a minimum of 16C in January to a perfect 25C in August.
+Getting+there:+
The closest Red Sea resort from Cairo, Taba is 398 kilometres from Cairo and takes approximately six hours by car.
Taking a bus is a convenient, if somewhat arduous, alternative, and takes slightly longer. Hot and cold drinks and a range of snacks are available on the bus, although the attendant is rather over-enthusiastic and might even wake you to ask if you would like a third cup of tea. The buses also have televisions, and show Arabic comedies or gruesome Van Damme action films, very loudly, to distract you from the endless desert, or to torment you, depending on the amount of crackle from the television set. East Delta buses to Taba leave from Cairo's Turgoman bus station at 6.30am and 9.30am every day and cost LE55. Inexplicably, the return journey costs just LE53.
There is also an airport at Taba, but currently it is open for charter flights only.
