Wandering amid the silence

Whether you are looking for a one-day getaway or a 16-day adventure, there is no better place than Farafra. Vivian Salama describes her first experience in the desert

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For miles, the only evidence of any life are footsteps and tyre tracks left from the last excursion (above); oddly shaped boulders sculpted by the harsh desert winds protrude from the ground (right)

The mystique and wonders of the great White Desert lie in Cairo's backyard, but travellers who choose to venture south by bus from Cairo will find that the journey is a bit more hectic than most travel agencies will let on. From Cairo, the trip should take between six and eight hours by bus, depending on the number of diversions on the road to Farafra -- and you can be sure that there will be some. The stops are unannounced, so both native speakers and foreigners alike are forced to find their own way.

Prior to 1978, the only way to reach Farafra was by camel, via a caravan route. Now, with the construction of new wells, the small oasis is proving a great exporter of products such as dates, olives and rice. Farafra is the smallest and most isolated oasis in Egypt. Located approximately 500 kilometres away from Cairo, it is closer to Libya than to the Nile Valley.

Upon arrival, travellers are greeted by a cluster of Farafra locals drinking tea or carcidae (hibiscus) and smoking shisha. The drastic difference in lifestyle from the hustle and bustle of Cairo or Alexandria is immediately felt. Experience the simplicity of this oasis while you can, for ambitious plans by the Egyptian government for dozens of new communities in Farafra could mean the end of this serenity. Indeed, Farafra has seen a population boom in recent years as efforts to settle the surrounding areas are rapidly put to action. There are approximately 5,000 inhabitants in Farafra. However, recently settled lands just outside the oasis have sent the population soaring to nearly 13,000 residents. "The fewer the people, the fewer the problems," said Saad Ali, owner of Al-Badawiya Hotel in Farafra. "Here, everybody knows each other. They don't often come into contact with new things like television or computers."

Al-Badawiya Hotel, a quaint country-style lodge with all the facilities one might desire whether in a big city or in the middle of the Sahara, is a great starting point for any desert traveller. Ali runs the hotel with his brothers and could not be more hospitable. If you are an amateur adventurer, it is probably best to spend one night in the hotel and one night in the desert. Be sure to know what you are getting yourself into. A common misconception is that the desert generally remains warm throughout the year. This is not the case, so pack warm clothes! Temperatures can drop to single digits at night. The experience can become unpleasant for those who arrive unprepared.

Drop your things and be ready to go. Travellers will likely have a few hours to first sample the vastness and beauty of the White Desert. Sheets of white rock spread as far as the eye can see, as oddly shaped boulders sculpted by the harsh desert winds erupt from the ground. Some of these formations are given descriptive names to coincide with their unique appearances. Indeed, millions of years ago the Western Desert was actually completely covered in water. Farafra is located at the deepest point of that long-gone body of water. The evidence is in the fossilised seashells scattered throughout the desert. In recent years, explorers made the remarkable discovery of the ancient remains of whales.

Your host might have you catch the breathtaking sunset from across the open horizon, following by the incredible appearance of a star-filled sky. This is something you will never see in the big cities, so enjoy it while it lasts. "Farafra is in the middle of nowhere, so people come here especially to see the moon and the stars. Even the government comes here to study the moon," said Ali.

Once every last star is in place, grab your swimsuit and dash to Hot Spring Number Six. On a cold winter night, there is no greater solace than the hot temperatures of the spring -- so hot in fact that the rising steam can be seen from a distance! The people of Farafra believe the minerals in the water will make your skin look younger. So take great pleasure in this warm fountain of youth as you sit under the stars.

As for day two, make sure you get an early start because there is a lot to see. Load into the Jeep for an adventure you will not forget as within minutes your tour guide takes you off into the heart of the desert. For the average tourist, distinguishing one rock formation from the next is virtually impossible, which is why it is so astonishing to discover that the guides know the desert as though it's their own home.

The picturesque view is breathtaking. As though in an intricate painting, the soft beige sand compliments the white rocks. For miles, the only proof of life is the tyre-tracks left from the last excursion. You'll drive for hours, seeing cliffs, sand dunes, unique oases and more, well before you get to the camp.

Literally in the middle of nowhere, the camp is a modest group of tents, mattresses, and some firewood for the evening. A pair of young Bedouin men greet travellers with the warmest welcome. In our case, our camp hosts were not only brilliant cooks, but well versed in several languages. Many of the men return to their hometowns after having lived in Cairo and abroad. The simple reason is their deep love of the desert.

Once you set up camp, the desert is yours to explore and conquer. "People usually come here for a relaxing weekend. Many of the people come from Cairo just for those two days," explained Ali. The camp provides everything from facilities to food to sleeping gear (sleeping bags, blankets, pillows, etc). Sit around the campfire at night. Enjoy the stars, the food and the company. Bring along a pack of cards, for the Bedouins play a mean fist of poker! All the while though you will know that there is no better time than now to take a priceless journey into the White Desert.

For prices and information, you can call Saad Ali: 012 214 8343 or log on to www.badawiya.com

Traveller's notes

Driving is your best bet for getting to the oases. It's fast, comfortable and there are great opportunities to stretch and get out to photograph the scenic landscape of the Black and White Desert.

Bundle up! Low nighttime temperatures in the Western Desert can sting anyone who goes unprepared. Bring gloves, hats, warm socks and be prepared to layer up at night.

For the daytime, have ready a strong pair of sunglasses, sunscreen and good shoes for trucking through the desert. It also doesn't hurt to bring a few bottles of water of your own, depending on how dehydrated you tend to get.

Bring bug repellent! Mosquito bites can leave you with uncomfortable mementos from the desert, so it's better to protect yourself against them.

There are no lavatories in the desert, so bring your own toiletries.