Red spring

Mohamed El-Hebeishy takes a plunge into the waters of Al-Hamra in Wadi Al-Natrun

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l-r: Al-Hamra Lake where water evaporates in summer unveiling piles of the precious natron; Al-Hamra ecolodge photos: Mohamed El-Hebeishy and Ghada Kabesh

Want a place where you can swim, enjoy nature, breathe fresh air, have a nice meal and cozy accommodation? And all that only one hour from Cairo by car? It's not Fayed or Ain Al-Sukhna or Ras Sudr. It's a water spring in the middle of the desert called Al-Hamra. Lore has it that it is the exact spot where the Virgin Mary took a drink to quench her thirst during the flight of the Holy Family in Egypt.

In this particular spot you can get all the components of a holiday under one roof: virgin nature, fine weather, not crowded and history all around.

Al-Hamra (Red in English) is a natural water spring located in Wadi Al-Natrun, mid-way along the Cairo-Alex Desert Road. It is a water spring in a valley; you can find hundreds or perhaps thousands of these throughout Egypt. However, Al-Hamra is unique. As the name might suggest, the water spring is red in colour. The idea of red water spring might appear repelling when first mentioned. Nonetheless, once you lay your eyes on Al-Hamra, you will definitely fall in love with it.

The deep red colour of the highly saline water is the result of its distinctive mineral component, a pink coloured natural mineral that is categorised as a type of salt called natron. Natron is found in abundance throughout the area, which is how Wadi Al-Natrun (Natron Valley) acquired its name. During summer, and due to high temperatures, the water of the spring starts to evaporate, unveiling piles and piles of the precious mineral.

Natron was very precious in Pharaonic times as slaves used to labour through the summer season collecting the crystallised pinkish salt. To our great ancestors, Natron was a vital natural resource due to the important role it played in the mummification process. It was the drying agent that completely desiccated the body, hence preserving it. No water means no decay.

Surrounded by the red coloured water spring is a salt-water lake. Close to its northern side, you find a few blocks of stone systematically placed in the muddy soil, leading to what looks like a covered well, just a few steps into the lake. The covered well amidst the saline lake flows with fresh water, tasting as sweet as that of the Nile. When the Holy Family passed through the area, they were thirsty but of course couldn't drink the salt water. This is the explanation provided by the locals and Fathers of the nearby monasteries in an attempt to unravel the mystery, or rather the miracle.

Wadi Al-Natrun, in fact, is steeped in religious history as it has in its vicinity four of the most important monasteries in Coptic history. Anba Bishoi (the Monastery of St Bishoi), Abu Maqar (the Monastery of St Macarius), Al-Baramus (the Monastery of the Romans) and Al-Surian (Monastery of the Syrians) all date to the fourth century AD and are testimony to the endurance of the ancient Coptic Christian sect. The desert has been the protector of their faith, for it was there that thousands of Christians retreated to escape Roman prosecution in the fourth century AD. They lived in caves, built monasteries and developed the monastic tradition that was later adopted by European Christians.

So what can a traveller do besides relaxing on the spring's shore and visiting historical heritages? The list is long as Al-Hamra offers a wide array of various activities. Bird watchers will just adore the area due to its richness in feathered creatures both immigrating and resident. Spur Winged Plover, or Hoplopterus Spinosus, and Crested Lark, Galerida Cristata, are among the most common resident breeders that can be seen all year round.

The clear skies offer a unique experience for star gazing; just don't forget your binoculars.

For those who prefer more demanding types of activities, there's trekking around the lake and its surroundings. If you wish to roam the area with lesser effort, you can go for a horse or a camel ride. These can be easily arranged through the various lodging facilities in the locality.

You can take a dip in the lake, and rest assured -- the high level of the water salinity makes it impossible to drown, even if you try to. One important tip: buy a pair of high slippery boots as the spring bed is fairly muddy. Ladies would surely enjoy a mud bath taking into consideration the numerous benefits it yields.

As for accommodation, there are two main choices aside from camping in the wilderness: "Fishermen's Village" (+2 012 211 2503) which is a guest house type of resort equipped with two artificial lakes, where fishing fans can while away their time enjoying the hobby. It charges LE5 as entrance fees, LE10 as a minimum charge, in addition to LE5 for the fishing pool. If you opt for a chalet for day-use, the charge will be LE100; spending the night costs LE150 for one double room. Rates are restricted to Egyptians and foreign residents. Non-resident foreign rates are almost double.

The other option is Al-Hamra Ecolodge (+2 02 346 8565). Established and managed by Hani El-Kamouni, the ecolodge was inaugurated in September 2003. It offers an inimitable experience of accommodation in a cozy, family-like atmosphere. Eight differently designed and decorated cottages that all share the same rural soul, together form the main hosting facility. In addition, there are a number of rooms located in the main building that serve as an alternative. Al-Hamra Ecolodge offers double rooms/cottages for LE100 on bed and breakfast basis or LE170 on full board basis. Prices are valid for Egyptians, foreign residents and non-resident foreigners.

Although it is in the middle of the desert, Al-Hamra is adjacent to many outlets where you can have a nice meal and lively entertainment. As a matter of fact the Cairo-Alexandria road has restaurants catering to all tastes.

The Master rest house, located just outside Wadi Al-Natrun, serves snacks, hot meals and desserts and there is an open-air seating area as well as a children's playground.

The Rest House, opposite to the Master, serves oriental and international dishes. It also has a supermarket.

Wahet Omar (Omar's Oasis) which lies 111 kilometres from Cairo, offers wonderful traditional rural meals. Besides serving oriental food, Wahet Omar also offers excellent Italian dishes. An adjacent mini-zoo, with a variety of birds and animals, will entertain the children.

The nearby Lion's Village, named after the resident collection of lions and tigers, offers a variety of eateries. There are a number of restaurants surrounding a lake, serving both oriental and international dishes. The village also boasts an outlet for ostrich meat, chicken, honey, cheese and butter.

At night, Master offers live entertainment. Omar's Oasis hosts a live band on holidays as well as children's shows on Fridays and Saturdays during the summer.

Whether you live in Cairo or in Alex, Al-Hamra is still only an hour's drive away. Whether you want to close your cellular and recharge for a weekend stay of pure relaxation, or are just looking for a one-day trip, Al-Hamra is still your destination.