Bird land

Serene Assir visits one of the world's main migratory birds stopovers, the environmental protectorate of Al-Zaraniq in North Sinai

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A map showing bird migration routes from northern Europe to southern Africa hangs on the wall of the reception building leading into the 250 square kilometre Al-Zaraniq, 50 kilometres away from downtown Al-Arish. The lines representing them bring to mind the blood vessels growing out of a human heart -- clearly defined yet infinitely graceful. And many of them cross over from Egyptian Sinai to the Gaza Strip; here birds rest for food on their way north for the summer and south for the winter. In particular, Al-Zaraniq is often "the first resting place along routes that lead to and from Eastern Europe -- including areas stretching from the former Soviet Union through Belgium up to central to southern Africa", Wahid Salama, director of Environmental Protectorates in Egypt and founding director of Al-Zaraniq protectorate, explained: "The high season for Al-Zaraniq is autumn -- that is, now."

In all, an astounding 270 species of birds have been recorded to pass through or rest in Al-Zaraniq. Most are water birds, and seven are classified as endangered. "Some of the species come in relatively small numbers, while others come in huge flocks," Salama stressed. Among the endangered species are the imperial eagle, the lesser kestrel, the kingfisher and the cornake. Only eight species reside in the reserve all year round. It was such diversity that brought Al-Zaraniq into the spotlight in the late 1970s, a time when the environment was fast turning into a global concern. Its importance derived particularly but not exclusively from migratory birds, for the area is home to other important species of fauna (the Egyptian tortoise, the fennec fox and the sand cat) as well as flora, the latter including the endangered Argyrolobium uniflorum and Iris maria species. In all, 770 species have been recorded. But it was not until 1985 that it became an environmental protectorate, following the declaration of the first such protectorate in Egypt (Ras Mohamed in South Sinai).

"Studies started in part as a consequence of a worldwide interest in the environmental importance of the Sinai Peninsula," Salama said. "Though we now have 24 protectorates in Egypt, Al-Zaraniq is certainly still the most important in terms of birds." And the global calibre of the area is instantly evident -- even to the layperson. The area encompasses desert land, a salt water lake -- which is used, controversially, for salt mining -- and plant life bordering the banks of the water, not to mention the Mediterranean coast. On their travels, the birds find plenty to eat whether on their way north or south; they also find the peace necessary for resting. Preferring to remain anonymous, a Bedouin worker at Al-Zaraniq spoke of the importance of safety for the livelihood of birds. "They learn quickly," he said. "They know exactly where the trouble is, and where the food is found, the space to rest and lay their eggs. It takes one assault on one bird by, for example, a hunter, for flocks on end to know that they must fly higher or find an alternative to the route they're used to. You see, the point is that one should learn how to gather knowledge directly from nature. After 13 years of working here and living with the birds, I've learnt so much from them."

He recalled the Abu Rush Al-Skandari species, which lays brown eggs when it senses danger in order to provide them with camouflage in the sand: "In order to deceive and escape its predators, it pretends to have an injured wing. Then, as the predator comes ever closer, it recovers in an instant and takes flight." Looking out into the distance over the sea, he added that "one can learn loyalty to the flock." But most of all, he said with a smile, "one learns about love from the birds. As they travel long distances, undergoing all manner of hardship, they never forget the importance of loving and being kind to one another." Such qualities give these fragile creatures the strength to tread such enormous and perilous paths. That they should be concentrated in one location makes it a truly invaluable venue.