TRAVEL is a monthly supplement of Al-Ahram Weekly appearing the last Thursday of the month. We welcome contributions and letters on subjects raised in this supplement. Material may be edited for length and clarity; and should be addressed to Rehab Saad, Travel Editor, Al-Ahram Weekly, Galaa St, Cairo, Egypt; fax: +(202) 57 87 089, email: r.saad@ahram.org.eg; for advertising call tel/fax +(202) 770 47 81