Shattered dreams

In Dahab anger is rife at what many residents claim is gross incompetence on the part of the security forces, report Jailan Halawi and Salonaz Sami

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Tourists and Egyptians shout anti-violence slogans during a demonstration against the bombings; Egyptian soldiers on patrol as tourists walk by; a look at the scene of one of the bombed areas; security official collects evidence; investigators inspect the site of one of the blasts; workers clear the area in the wake of the attack

Dahab means gold in Arabic, though for the residents and visitors to this most famously laid back of Sinai's resorts Dahab probably means a sea that is forever turquoise, and which boasts spectacular snorkelling and diving spots.

The town north of Sharm El-Sheikh was once a remote Bedouin fishing village. Now, though, it has a reputation as an international playground, with perfect windsurfing conditions, relaxed cafés, and competitively priced accommodation. Yet Dahab has managed to retain its village charm, providing a bohemian atmosphere where it is all too easy to lose track of time.

It was this dream-like atmosphere of tranquillity that was torn apart on Monday when three explosions rocked the resort, resulting in the death of 18 people and the injury of 85 others, according to official figures.

The first bomb exploded outside Al Capone, a popular beachfront restaurant. In less than a minute a further two explosions, one outside the Ghazala supermarket, the second next to a jewellery shop, shattered what had otherwise promised to be one more tranquil evening.

Unlike the majority of Sinai resorts, sites of major developments supported by the Ministry of Tourism, Dahab's tourist industry came about thanks to the initiative of locals, who set up the campsites, shops and cafés that first attracted people to this then undeveloped stretch of coast. They are still there, running their businesses, though following last week's bombings the future is far from certain.

"Now no one knows what will happen," said the owner of one of the many restaurants that dot the beach. "We will have to piece together our lives under an indifferent system."

In the immediate aftermath of the attacks residents of Dahab were keen to unburden their woes, with many expressing anger at the deteriorating levels of trust that exist between themselves and central government, and the security apparatus in particular.

"What should the government do in crisis situations?" asked one distraught resident. "In a situation like this they should make some provision for the thousand workers and shop owners whose livelihoods have been devastated. But will they?"

"What will happen is what always happens," said a fruit vendor. "Officials will fly to the scene in their suits and pose before the cameras, telling reporters from TV channels that they offer their condolences. They will vow that the culprits behind these bombings will pay for their crimes, they will promise compensation that no one will ever receive, and then they will fly away. And that will be the last we ever see or hear of them."

Residents contradicted news reports and official statements that claimed ambulances had quickly arrived at the scene of the tragedy.

"After the explosions the promenade was a blood bath. Everywhere people were begging for help. It was ghastly, and it was the people of Dahab who rushed to help the victims, even if they could do little beyond offer comfort to the injured as they waited for medical help to arrive," said Mohsen Nour, a shop owner.

For any town the size of Dahab, let alone a tourist hot spot, medical facilities appear to be surprisingly thin on the ground. The only clinic, explained the locals, is not only ill equipped but also understaffed. It has just three doctors, who are not always available.

There is a new hospital, construction of which was completed on 19 March. It has yet to be equipped, furnished and staffed. When Al-Ahram Weekly approached South Sinai Governor Mohamed Hani and asked why this was the case his response was to suggest we ask the former governor since he had been appointed to his post only in January.

Residents of Dahab say they requested officials to make helicopters available to transport the injured to the nearest medical facilities in Sharm El-Sheikh. The reply they received was "not just humiliating", said Osama Zohdi, a teacher who has lived in Dahab since 1993, "it made us realise exactly how little the state values our lives."

"They said they could not afford helicopters to help people who were severely injured, whose lives were threatened, and they were left to be transported in micro-buses and vans. Yet there was no shortage of helicopters to fly in officials so that they could issue statements to the international media."

Other witnesses say that when residents tried to transport the injured to Sharm El-Sheikh themselves in the absence of ambulances they were detained at checkpoints.

Hani refutes such allegations as "untrue", saying that immediately following the attacks eight ambulances were available and a further 20 were called from Sharm El-Sheikh.

Away from the beach, and walking through an area of small shops and bazaars, the sense of gloom was palpable as shop assistants and owners stood idly by, their faces registering little beyond disbelief. Many, often young, had sunk their entire savings into opening these small businesses, and no one knew what the future might hold.

The owner of one bazaar, Ahmed Sayed, stood outside his empty shop. "Are you from the press?" he asked. "If you are, you will see that I am too busy working to have any time to give statements to journalists." It was a bitter joke, and he, like the other owners of neighbouring shops, had plenty to say and plenty of time in which to say it.

The government is responsible for the attacks," said Sayed, explaining that Dahab is a small resort, with only one access road, and if the police are unable to secure it then the country is facing "a major problem".

Sayed and his neighbours complained that while the security services, officers and policemen, are "laid back when it comes to ensuring the security of the resort and its visitors and residents, they are perfectly capable of flexing their muscles and exercising authority over the poor workers".

The shop owners also criticised the security procedures used to check those entering and leaving the town. "Why don't they have electronic gates that could detect explosives, or computers that could check the identities of those entering or leaving through checkpoints? Why do they stick to their ancient systems?" asked Amir Zaki, a supermarket owner.

Those behind the attack are sending a message to the government, believe the shop owners. "It is very straightforward," said Mounir Raouf. "They want to say they are in control and they can carry out attacks at any time they want, and anywhere. The security forces cannot stop them, even when they suspect an attack is going to happen."

Most residents of Dahab complain that security procedures in the town have been "lax", and blame the attacks on failings within the security apparatus. Those responsible, insist the townspeople, should have the dignity to "at least retire, even if they do not stand trial on charges of negligence".