Al-Ahram Weekly Online   9 - 15 November 2006
Issue No. 819
Travel
 
Published in Cairo by AL-AHRAM established in 1875

SNAP SHOTS

By Mohamed El-Hebeishy

AT FIRST glance, one may mistake it for a Pharaonic archaeological site but this is the remains of the only Pharaonic temple outside mainland Egypt. Mohamed El-Hebeishy sets out to discover the Nile Valley temple of Serabit Al-Khadem, dedicated to the Goddess Hathor -- Lady of the Turquoise.

Miners were the very first settlers in Sinai. Around 8,000 years ago they started mining near-surface turquoise and copper. By 3500 BC, the goliath turquoise vein of Serabit Al-Khadem was discovered and for more than 2,000 years the early Pharaohs of newly united Egypt conducted a fairly systematic operation. Turquoise was extracted from the high mountainous mines, carried down through Wadi Matalla till it reached the garrison port of Al-Markha, near today's Abu Zenima. From there it was loaded onto ships bound for mainland Egypt. The bluish green turquoise served a number of purposes, from carving scarabs to using its powder as a colouring paint.

Dedicated to Hathor, the patron goddess of copper and turquoise miners, her temple is located 1,100m above sea level. It was first built during the reign of Pharaoh Sesostris I of the Middle Kingdom. Further and during the New Kingdom, the temple was partly reconstructed. It acquired its current name from the Bedouin word "Sarbot", singular for Serabit, meaning the erected column. "Al-Khadem" on the other hand means the servant as this is how the locals refer to Hathor. A number of the temple's columns still withstand the test of time.

Intensive efforts are being made to promote the area; work is underway to complete the asphalt road connecting Serabit Al-Khadem to the main coastal motorway. In addition, a lodging facility at the foot of Serabit's mountain is also in its final phases. The route that goes up to the temple has already been maintained, with the riskier parts of the path being guarded with a natural made fence as well as a staircase, all to ease and secure the climb.

For details concerning the hiring of guides, 4W rental and full safari offers to Serabit Al-Khadem, contact Rabie Baraka +2 010 531 2380.

photo: Mohamed El-Hebeishy

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