Nehad Selaiha finds no mirth in the Week of Laughter festival held from 10 to 16 July

Ati Metwaly enters the red chamber

A week ago the Sayida Zainab mawlid brought the flavour of popular -- Sufi -- celebrations back to the heart of Cairo: having attended several of the saints' anniversaries this year, Giuseppe Acconcia celebrates a glorious grassroots tradition