Dig days: An oasis with a dream
Each of the five oases in Egypt's Western Desert has a distinctive character, determined by the unique ecology of each and the subtle difference between the populations in terms of crafts produced and the way of life they enjoy. A recent trip to Dakhla Oasis evokes particularly fond memories. I had been invited by Dr Hamid and his wife Dr Alia Hussein to open the Anthropological Museum there.
Having taken an early morning flight to neighbouring Kharga Oasis and breakfasted on arrival, I decided, along with my hosts to visit the Hibis Temple before heading to Dakhla. The monument built in Persian times had been slated to be dismantled by the Supreme Council of Antiquities (SCA) and rebuilt at a nearby location, because it was suffering adverse effects of the high water table. However, after inspecting the monument on an earlier visit with a committee more than a year ago, we put a halt to the idea of relocating it. We decided that the Hibis Temple could be restored in-situ, and the site should be called Ber Al-Shaghala.
On my visit with Drs Hamid and Alia I was particularly impressed by the conduct and findings of the young archaeologists working at the oasis who had discovered many beautifully painted first century AD tombs. It is interesting to observe that the ancient artists in the oasis had not been trained in the traditional workshops of Egypt, and the scenes painted on the walls of tombs are delightfully naive.
We also dropped by the city of Al-Qasr, an Islamic city about 25 kilometres from the town Mut, capital of Dakhla Oasis. Al-Qasr gives its visitors a glimpse of the past with its large mud brick buildings and narrow streets. The director of Islamic Architecture at Dakhla showed us some of the most distinctive buildings in the city, including a courthouse and a school for religious studies that had a special area for students that included closets for them to store their belongings. We were reminded of aspects of the daily lives of oases' dwellers by an olive press.
The minaret in the city of Sheikh Nasr Al-Deir, which dates to the Ummayed Period, looks over the city at 21 metres. The city was built on a high mound, on the remains of an Egyptian temple like many other towns in Egypt's oases. The entrance of one of the houses carries an inscription bearing the date 924-1019 AD.
I had an interesting meeting with a local representative of the town and we discussed the area's future, in particular measures to conserve historic areas. We also discussed the problems faced by people living in the vicinity of those areas and possible solutions to those dilemmas.
Rounding out my visit was a trip to see Alia Hussein's work with the villagers. She is teaching them ancient craft techniques that are in danger of dying out. In a building that dates back to the Ottoman Period 1785 on a 242 square metre piece of land, Alia has created a museum with a commercial outlet. The house itself, built of mud brick is typical of its era. Income from the crafts sold will go towards improving the lives of the villagers. This remarkable woman left her home in Cairo to come and live in Dakhla, and guide the people in manufacturing beautiful baskets, jewellery and crafts. Thanks to Alia's efforts they are not only reviving arts that were almost lost but preserving their heritage as well.
Al-Ahram Weekly Online : 12 - 18 June 2003 (Issue No. 642)
Located at: http://weekly.ahram.org.eg/2003/642/he2.htm