Traveller's notes
-Today's Luxor is actually three distinct areas nestled into one nook of the Nile Valley -- the town of Luxor itself, the village of Karnak a couple of kilometres to the northeast and the monuments and necropolis of ancient Thebes on the western bank of the Nile. The town's cheap hotels are clustered along four main thoroughfares. Sharia Al-Mahatta, Sharia Al-Karnak, Al- Corniche and Sharia Al-Television constitute a bustling focal point for so much of the tourism that is funnelled into the Valley of the Kings.-The nightly sound and light show at the Karnak Temples is the main -- and probably the only -- nocturnal activity for tourists in Luxor. The hour- and-a-half-long show recounts the history of Thebes and the lives of the many Pharaohs who built sanctuaries, courts, statues or obelisks in honour of the god Amun. Multilingual performances are at 6:30pm, 7:50pm, 9pm and 10:20pm (shows start about one hour later in summer). Depending on the time, the show is offered in English, French, Spanish, Japanese, Arabic, German and Italian. For more information call 00+(02097) 372 241 or check www.sound- light.egypt.com.
-The Karnak and Luxor Temples are the only sites situated on the eastern bank of the Nile. The Karnak Temples are open from 6:30am to 5:30pm in winter and from 6am to 6pm in summer. Admission is LE20 for foreigners, LE10 for foreign students, LE2 for Egyptians and LE1 for Egyptian students. Visiting the open-air museum, to the left of the second pylon, costs an extra LE10. The museum contains a collection of statuary that was found throughout the temple complex. The ticket has to be purchased at the main Karnak ticket kiosk.
Luxor temple opens from 6 am to 9pm in winter and from 6am to 10pm in summer. Admission is LE20 for tourists and LE2 for Egyptians. In addition to the temples there are two museums on the eastern bank: Luxor Museum and the Mummification Museum. The former's hours are 9am to 1pm and 4pm to 9pm in winter and 9am to 1pm and 5pm to 10pm in summer. Entrance fees are LE30. The latter opens from 9am to 1pm and from 4pm to 9pm in winter and from 9am to 1pm and from 5pm to 10pm in summer. Entrance fees are LE20.
-It was 9am when we crossed westward over the Nile to the Valley of the Kings and Al-Bahari. After walking a bit in the valley I realised the error of setting out so late. By noon the sun became fierce, threatening my enjoyment of the ubiquitous monuments. The most popular sites provide paltry shade. To escape the heat, start the outing by 6am and finish by 8am or 9am. Wearing a hat and sunglasses are not a luxury, they are essential. It is also advisable to wear cotton clothes and a comfortable pair of shoes.
-Tickets for sites on the western bank are available from the Antiquities Inspector ticket office, about three kilometres inland from the ferry landing. It is open from 6am to 4pm daily (until 5pm in the summer). Tickets are valid only for the day of purchase and no refunds are given. In the Valley of the Kings LE20 for foreigners or LE2 for Egyptians gets you into any three tombs. The tomb of Tutankhamun has special fee, LE40 for foreigners and LE10 for Egyptians. The temple of Hatshepsut, the Ramesseum, Medinat Habu and the temple of Seti I, the Deir Al-Median temples and tombs, the Valley of the Queens (excluding the tomb of Nefertari) and the tombs of the Nobles are accessible for LE12 each.
-Taking photos is completely forbidden inside the tombs of the Valley of Kings, Queens and Nobles. Tourist guides are also not allowed to accompany their groups inside the tombs, telling the tombs' tales outside. This is believed to shorten the time of the visit inside the tomb and prevent overcrowding.
-The tomb of Nefertari has been completely closed since January 2003. Salvaging and restoration work ran from 1986 to 1995. In 1995 the tomb was opened for a limited number of daily visitors, each of whom paid LE100 to enter its vividly decorated chambers. In order to protect the tomb, the Committee for Egyptian Antiquities has recently decided to close it and allow only VIP's and special delegates to enter.
-There are three means to access the western bank of the Nile. Take a taxi and cross the river via the new Luxor bridge seven kilometres south of Luxor, hop on the local ferry for LE1 or cruise across the river on the motor boat for LE5. The last two options are the quickest. The bridge option is only viable before 5pm, at which time the bridge closes. According to the residents of Gurna, a principal village on the western bank, these working hours isolate their village from the east side of the river after sunset and thus adversely affect their tourist business.
-Due to the fact that Luxor is not currently meeting its tourist capacity, EgyptAir has minimised its daily flights to three. For that reason, it is advisable to book a flight two or three weeks in advance to avoid being wait listed.
-The cost and availability of accommodation varies with the seasonal fluctuations in tourism. Some hotels slash their prices by 50 per cent in the low season (summer). Those on a shoe-string budget take their pick from hotels and pensions situated on and off Youssef Hassan, Al-Mahatta and Television Streets. Campers can head to the YMCA camping site 00+(02095) 372 425 or Rezeiky Camp 00+(02095) 381 334.
For a mid-range budget there is a wide range of hotels on the eastern bank. These include Phillipe Hotel 00+(02095) 373 604, Mina Palace Hotel 00+(02095) 372 074, Luxor Wena Hotel 00+ (02095) 380 018 and Windsor Hotel 00+(02095) 372 847.
With money to burn Luxor offers a number of five-star hotels such as the Old Winter and New Winter hotels 00+(02095) 380 422, Movenpick Jolieville 00+(02095) 374 855, Sheraton Luxor Resort 00+(02095) 374 544, Novotel Luxor 00+ (02095) 380 925 and Hilton Hotel 00+(02095) 374 933.
-Dining out in Luxor is an experience all of its own. Budget dining is best on Mahatta and Television Streets. These options include the Salt and Bread Cafeteria on Midan Al-Mahatta, Abu Ashraf on Mahatta Street, famous for roasted chicken, kushari and shawerma, and Chicken Hut on the corner of Al-Souq and Karnak Streets. To dine in style head to one of the five-star hotel restaurants.
-Useful links
Al-Ahram Weekly Online : 23 - 29 October 2003 (Issue No. 661)
Located at: http://weekly.ahram.org.eg/2003/661/tr2.htm