Traveller's notes
-The Egyptian coast of the Red Sea (or Mare Rostrum, as ancient mariners called it after the red mountain ranges) extends from the Gulf of Suez to the Sudanese frontier. Flanked by the Eastern Desert, where Bedouin tribes have been replaced by roaming herds of deer and ibex, the coast is dotted by coral-reefs and bears the marks of maritime history, with the remains of ancient and modern harbours and the scent of the sea.-Safaga and the surrounding area have no indigenous population as such. Once the property of nomadic Bedouin tribes, they are inhabited mostly by fellahin (peasants), the vast majority of whom come from Upper Egypt. If you are after respect from the people it is therefore best to abide by the most conventional dress and behavioural codes possible.
-Qusseir and Berenice, the two ports closest to Safaga, were principal points of arrival and departure for Phoenician and Egyptian traders setting out to the Far East and, more recently, Europe. The opening of the Suez Canal (1869) facilitated a range of previously unavailable shipping routes.
-Temperatures range from 10 degrees Celsius during winter nights to 34 degrees Celsius during the day at the height of summer, making Safaga an excellent place for experiencing a desert climate without too much suffering. Summer afternoons are best spent either indoors or in the water, as the humidity makes life uncomfortable outdoors. Night walks are the best way to bond with nature and inhale clear air. The environment attracts various species of birds, and bird watchers, all year.
-Trolling may seem like an easy pastime, but in reality requires both skill and experience. The easiest way to improve your chances of catching fish and race to the top of the learning curve is to be pleasant and polite to the crew, who will take you to the best spots and willingly impart their knowledge. Your behaviour on board will also contribute to the crew's conception of your nationality at large.
-There are two daily flights from Cairo to Hurghada at 6am and 7pm. Round trip tickets: LE407 for Egyptians; LE1,115 for foreigners. Inquire at EgyptAir offices: Adly St (00+(202) 392 7649 and Hilton Hotel (00+ (202) 597 3046).
Al-Ahram Weekly Online : 27 November - 3 December 2003 (Issue No. 666)
Located at: http://weekly.ahram.org.eg/2003/666/tr5.htm