Weekend retreats: The beach within reach
Attracted by its long stretch of beach, crystal blue waters and richly coloured mountains running along the Gulf of Suez, Rasha Sadek chose Ain Al-Sukhna for her weekend getaway
Why go now?
This is just the perfect time for an escape. When it's chilly and noisy you start to search for places that provide warmth and relaxation. Ain Al-Sukhna is one of those places. Its uniquely exquisite features have made it a top choice both for Egyptians and foreigners.
Situated on the Gulf of Suez and lined by a range of tinted mountains, temperatures in Ain Al-Sukhna vary between 18 and 26 degrees Celsius in winter and 32 and 36 in summer. Often referred to as "Cairo's beach", Ain Al-Sukhna is only 140 kilometres from the capital.
The radiant Gulf of Suez is known for its rich marine life which offers wonderful snorkelling and occasionally dolphin watching. Ain Al-Sukhna is also an excellent place for water sports like windsurfing, canoeing, water skiing and fishing. Along with Ras Sudr, 60 kilometres south of the Ahmed Hamdi tunnel, Ain Al-Sukhna provides a perfect weekend in a gorgeous climate.
Getting around
There is no airport in Ain Al-Sukhna, but it can be reached in slightly over an hour by bus, train or private car. Unfortunately, there are no direct buses to Ain Al-Sukhna, so you have to take an East Delta bus (00+(202) 576 2293) from Cairo to Suez (LE7.25), then go by service taxi or bus from Suez (three buses daily, LE5) to Ain Al-Sukhna. Cairo- Suez buses leave from the Almaza terminal in Heliopolis every half-hour. Trains to Suez leave from Ain Shams station, next to the Metro stop in Ain Shams suburb, for LE4 at 9:20am, 1:20pm, 4:15pm, 6:45pm and 9:40pm, but they take more than two hours.
There are two ways to get to Ain Al- Sukhna by car: along the Cairo-Suez highway or by taking the back road through Qattamiya. The former is slightly longer at 110 kilometres, but has the advantage of being a dual carriageway and is well serviced. The latter route is only 95 kilometres, but the road is narrow and the surface has suffered a heavy battering by enormous trucks that trudge up and down its length around the clock. If your first priority is to arrive safe and sound at the beach, you might be better off putting your eggs in the direct Cairo-Suez basket.
City fact file
Ain Al-Sukhna lies on the Gulf of Suez just 55 kilometres south of Suez. Administratively, Ain Al-Sukhna is part of the Suez governorate. It extends 60 kilometres on the Red Sea coast from Al- Adbia in the north and Zaafarana in the south. Romantic expeditionaries, desert safari lovers and mountain climbers in the 1940s put Ain Al-Sukhna on the holiday map.
The first government hotel was not built in the area until the 1960s. The area -- as well as the first hotel -- takes its name from a nearby sulfur spring which originates at Gebel Ataqa, the northernmost mountain in the Eastern Desert. By the 1990s, Ain Al-Sukhna was ready for investment. A spattering of hotels, resorts and villages sprung up. From that day forward development in the area has been on the rise.
South of Ain Al-Sukhna, about halfway to Hurghada, lies the old Red Sea city of Zaafarana. It has only one resort -- Sol Y Mar hotel, formerly the Windsor. There's only one roadside restaurant in the city and two service stations, but more is planned for the future. Being a major natural gas- producing area and possessing one of the biggest LNG fields south of Alexandria, Zaafarana sees itself more as a communications hub than a retreat. It is, in fact, a way- station for visits to the Coptic monasteries of St Anthony and St Paul in the mountains overlooking the Gulf of Suez.
Check in
Ain Al-Sukhna is a model for other resorts. During the past few years dozens of projects have been planned and executed, turning this once locals-only area into an international retreat.
Stella di Mare Hotel (00+ (2062) 250 100) a five-star hotel that offers double rooms for LE400-450 per night on weekdays and LE460-510 on weekends. Prices vary according to the view (sea and pool, garden and sea or back view) and are charged on a half-board basis. Suites are also offered for a range of LE1050-1200. Day use rates -- available only on weekdays -- are LE125 per person including lunch. The hotel has several sports courts and water sports equipment, a Pharaonic-style decorated health club, a marina and four meeting rooms. The hotel organises fishing and snorkelling trips for LE50 a person and arranges limousine cars for excursions outside Ain Al- Sukhna.
Palmera Beach Resort (00+ (2062) 410 818) a four-star resort offering double rooms for LE270 half-board, and day-use rooms for LE75 per person including lunch.
Amigo Resort (00+ (2062) 410 001) a two-village resort offering double rooms for LE270 on half-board basis and day-use rooms for LE50 including lunch.
La Siesta Mountain Resort (00+ (2) 392 4786) a three- star resort constructed in Ain Al-Sukhna mountains. The main hotel is due to open next year, but there are chalets for rent at LE300 per night. Chalets are built on different levels of the mountain offering unique views.
Sol Y Mar Hotel (00+ (2012) 228 8398) a five-star hotel replacing the Windsor Hotel. It is the only hotel in Zaafarana and lies midway between Cairo and Hurghada. Double rooms are offered for LE250 half-board while the day use-rate is LE70 per person including lunch.
Daily excursions
There is not much to see in the city Ain Al- Sukhna. However, there are two of the world's oldest monasteries in the area, namely the monasteries of Saint Anthony and Saint Paul, which are worth visiting. It is also believed that the northern part of Gebel Al-Galala Al-Baharia is where Moses and his followers fled Egypt to the Sinai Peninsula.
The Monastery of Saint Anthony lies 35 kilometres southwest of Zaafarana on the slope of Gebel Al-Galala. It is the oldest monastery in the world built in the fourth century AD by Saint Anthony and comprising one of the most valuable architectural ensembles of post-Pharaonic Egypt. The area around the monastery is free of hotels and restaurants, and surrounded by churches built in spiritual emulation. The monastery's library houses a rich collection of early Coptic manuscripts. There are also wall paintings and Gothic graffiti. There's also an ancient fortress nearby, built by Emperor Justinian in 537 AD.
Today, the monastery is a self-contained village with gardens, a mill and a bakery. The cave where St Anthony lived as a hermit is a two kilometre hike from the monastery and 680 metres above the Red Sea. The monastery offers stunning view of the mountains and the sea and a chance to see a wide range of bird life.
The Monastery of St Paul is located on the Ain Al-Sukhna-Hurghada road about 27 kilometres south of Zaafarana. It was built during the fourth century AD and completed in the 13th and 18th centuries. Although Saint Paul was born to wealthy parents, he abandoned civilisation to live in the desert for 85 years. The monastery has three churches: the church of St Macarius built in 1781, the church of St Michael built in 1733 and the underground church of St Paul, which was originally dug into the cave where the saint lived and where his remains are kept.
The monasteries of Saint Paul and Saint Anthony depend on natural springs for their water supply. In St Paul's Monastery, there is a rock that produces four square metres of water daily.
Both monasteries open at 9am and close at 5pm. No visits are allowed during Lent and Christmas. It is possible to overnight in the guest houses of the two monasteries; however, you should get written permission from their residence in Cairo (00+(202) 590 0218), 26 Al-Keneesa Al-Morcosia St., off Klot Bey, in the area just south of Ramses Square.
It is also possible to hike between the two monasteries along a trail across the top of the plateau. However, as the trip will take two days, hiking is only for the fit and experienced and should be done with a guide. It is advisable to start your trek at St Paul's.
Wadi Al-Dome lies 50 kilometres south of the Suez-Sukhna road. The valley is named after the two dome palms which once stood on either side of its oasis. In older times Wadi Al-Dome provided for an exciting desert safari. Unfortunately, the dome palms were removed to make way for touristic expansion, and the valley was converted into a military area.
Even if you lack the time or energy for desert excursions, the marvellous rock formations of the coloured mountains will provide an unforgettable experience.
Dining out
Besides a few fast food joints, there is also the sea-food restaurant of Abu Ali (facing the Amigo Resort) that serves up excellent dishes of fresh Red Sea fish, shrimp and calamari. Hotel restaurants are another option. Ponte Vicchio, in the Stella di Mare, serves Italian meals and Il Proverbio serves international cuisine. There's also the Beach restaurant offering Lebanese and fish plates, open Fridays and Saturdays. Gabiano serves snacks by the pool.
Other hotels have distinctive international cuisine restaurants like Palmera Restaurant in Palmera Beach Resort and the Zaafarana Restaurant in Sol Y Mar Hotel.
Into the night
Stella di Mare has a Cubano discotheque showing a live band Tuesdays to Saturdays and a DJ nightly. The Palmera hotel presents a Russian show on weekends in addition to a daily DJ. The Sol Y Mar and Amigo hotels have discotheques also with DJs. You can also enjoy the charming atmosphere around a campfire at the open air La Viesta cafe at the La Siesta resort.
Al-Ahram Weekly Online : 27 November - 3 December 2003 (Issue No. 666)
Located at: http://weekly.ahram.org.eg/2003/666/tr6.htm